Narbonne Cathedral, Languedoc (Photo: Benh Lieu
Song)
Languedoc-Roussillon is about as far south you can go in France without finding
yourself wading in the Mediterranean. The region covers a massive area which
begins at the banks of the River Rh๔ne in the East and stretches through the
ancient cities of N๎mes, Narbonne and Montpelier. It covers the haunting walled
city of Carcassonne and extends down to Perpignan and to the Pyrenees near the
Spanish border. This enormous area is dominated by over 740,000 acres of
vineyards, making it the biggest wine-producing area in the world. Not only
that, they’ve been making wine there for centuries. And plenty of it too; it’s
been estimated that ten percent of the world’s wine comes from the
Languedoc-Roussillon. These days, some of the wines from the south can be
exceptionally good.
On the face of it, these two bottles appear rather similar;
the same colour (well, almost), the same grape, the same area of origin and
appellation. Pretty much the same price, too. But in terms of character, they’re
completely different.
Joseph Castan “Excellence” Merlot 2010, Pays d’Oc (red),
France (Big C Extra, Pattaya Klang Bt. 449)
In 1907, Joseph Castan settled in the sleepy French hamlet of
Lansargues, near the Mediterranean coast, to cultivate his own vineyard. He was
so passionate about his vocation and proud of the wine he made, that his efforts
were eventually rewarded. Today, Joseph Castan Fine Wines export to over fifteen
countries, and produce wines from both the Languedoc-Roussillon and the Rh๔ne
Valley.
This is an intense ruby-red with reflections in the glass. It
has a gorgeous red fruit aroma that wafts out as soon as you start pouring. The
grapes were grown in vineyards at the foothills of the C้vennes. This name will
have a familiar ring if you’ve ever read Robert Louis Stevenson’s book about his
travels there in 1878, with a stubborn donkey named Modestine.
It has a lovely floral aroma (the wine I mean, not the
donkey). It’s actually quite complex; with hints of strawberries, raspberries,
peppermint and dried herbs, possibly rosemary. I wouldn’t lay money on the
rosemary mind you, but I’m fairly sure it’s in there. You might even pick up the
rather heady alcohol content of 13.5% on the aroma. The mouth-feel is
beautifully soft and velvety, with a very supple underlying layer of soft
tannins. The wine has a medium to full body and a long lingering dry finish.
This really is a super easy-drinker but oddly enough, it
doesn’t taste very French. At least, not to me. The wine reminds me more of
California than of Carcassonne. But never mind; it’s smooth, classy and a
terrific example of what Merlot can do. It looks, smells and tastes a good deal
more expensive than it actually is. A month or two ago, I bought a well-known
brand of Burgundy costing three times the price. This wine beats it hands down.
Incidentally, Joseph Castan also produces some other varietals in the
“Excellence” range, which include a Syrah, a Carignan, a Cabernet Sauvignon and
a Chardonnay.
Ph. Bouchard Merlot 2010 Pays d’Oc (red), France (Big C
Extra, Pattaya Klang Bt. 445)
The well-known company Ph. Bouchard & Cie is based in the
South of France and has been making wine since 1920. It’s now one of the largest
companies in the region. This wine has plenty of black fruit on the aroma;
blackcurrants, cherries, a touch of oakiness and a kind of spicy, brambly smell
in the background which is difficult to describe but instantly recogniseable.
How much easier it would be, if I could just hand you the glass and say, “Come
on, get your snout into this!”
The wine has a rich fruity taste with a pleasing edge and
there’s a longish dry finish. With its attractive bite of tannin, it tastes very
French. Few wine-drinkers would fail to recognise its Gallic origins. If you
want something for food, this wine with its slightly tangy taste and 13% alcohol
content would be terrific if you serve it cool at around 16ฐC. It would be
perfect with one of my home-made cheese quiches which, modest though I am, are
rather good. Even the dogs agree.
