The Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort burst on to the
Pattaya scene a couple of years ago, but only now seems to be settling in to
its rightful position in the culinary scene. Part of that process belongs to
Italian chef Alberto Bruni, who despite having been in Thailand for the past
20 years, remains the boy from his Italian home village La Spezia, which he
left 36 years ago.
Now, do you remember The Italian Job? The original one
released in 1969 that starred Michael Caine, with Benny Hill as the
excitable computer expert. The Centara Grand Mirage’s Italian Acqua
restaurant ‘stars’ the enthusiastic chef Alberto Bruni, exhibiting the same
amount of ‘passion’ as Benny Hill, as only Italians can.
The Centara Grand’s Italian restaurant is called ‘Acqua’
(water) and is on the ground floor (turn right after the concierge desk) and
is a glassed-in venue. Along the back wall is a kitchen behind glass, and
even the private dining area for 14 people is hidden behind glass. Clever
use of dried fronds also gives the appearance of being under water. Good
sized tables, comfortable chairs, quality cutlery and napery and attentive
staff all go to show that Acqua is indeed a fine dining restaurant.
We met Chef Alberto, or rather, he met us, as we came in.
He enthuses the diners with non-stop descriptions of his cuisine. “I know my
products,” said Alberto, adding that everything is available these days in
Thailand. For Alberto and the diners at Acqua, these include endives from
Belgium, artichokes and Wagyu beef from Australia and a wonderful range of
cheeses from Italy.
We began with Alberto’s suggestion of a Pinot Grigio, and
he selected the Cuvee di Pinot Bianco e Pinot Grigio, Villa Sandi, 2007. If
you enjoy a Pinot Grigio, you will enjoy this one. However, from there on we
were in Alberto’s hands and I have often found that this is the best way to
handle an Italian meal as nobody knows what’s best that evening more than
the chef himself.
Don’t get me wrong, there is a very nice printed menu,
and what’s more, Alberto carries an iPad with photographs of the dishes (he
does his own photography, by the way) for those unsure of what “Linguine ai
frutti di mare con pomodora leggero” might be, for example.
We began with antipasti, enjoying a selection of palate
teasers, including the Australian artichokes, and Alberto’s endive salad via
Belgium with celery, apple, orange, grapes and honey coated walnuts (B.
460), and all the usual hams, plus scallops and prawns.
Antipasti was followed by a soup, a pumpkin cream poured
at the table around a small ‘pie’ filled with leek and potato, spinach and
ricotta cheese (B. 220). What a wonderful way to present a humble soup! And
a great flavor as well.
We changed to a red wine, a Barbera Batosiolo d’Alba 2006
to prepare ourselves for the main course which was a ‘Rib Set’ featuring
Australian beef. With this dish, Alberto added three different salts - a
herbal, a pink Himalayan and a black Cypress salt. The meat just fell apart
and would have to be a meat-eaters concept of heaven.
But Chef Alberto was not finished with us yet. There was
the “Formaggi misti” (B. 750) to come - an assortment of Italian gourmet
cheeses with homemade walnut bread and honey. Quite honestly, the visit to
Acqua was worth it for this dish alone. Some very different cheeses and
simply delicious.
Acqua, under Alberto, will become one of the “in” places
to dine. The ambience is relaxed, the service excellent, and Alberto’s
dishes were all first class. Book your seats for the Centara Mirage’s
Italian Job. You will not be disappointed! You have my guarantee.
Acqua Italian Restaurant, Centara Grand Mirage Beach
Resort Pattaya, 277 M5 (go down Naklua Soi 18 and turn right at the bottom),
open six days (closed Mondays), 6 p.m. until 11.30 p.m., telephone 038 301
234, www. centarahotelsresorts.com, secure parking in the resort car parks.
