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Vol. XIV No. 43
Friday October 27 - November 2, 2006

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Updated every Friday
by Saichon Paewsoongnern

 

DINING OUT - ENTERTAINMENT

Kabuki returns

by Miss Terry Diner

Many years ago, there was a little Japanese Sushi/Sashimi restaurant at one end of the Benihana Restaurant which was on the first floor of Royal Garden Plaza overlooking Second Road. In the refurbishment, when Benihana moved to the next floor up and went to the Beach Road side of the Plaza, Kabuki somehow got lost. For those who love this type of cuisine, I have great news. Kabuki has found its way back!
If you go to the escalators at the Beach Road end of the Royal Garden Plaza, up to the second floor, you will almost walk right into Kabuki, in the left corner of the new Benihana. The refrigerated display cabinet is there, complete with several bottles of different sakis, with the production area immediately behind, where the Kabuki chef Josh weaves his magic.

The menu is limited, but there are enough choices from the 34 Japanese items. It begins with sashimi (five pieces per order) and has choices including egg omelet, red snapper, sweet shrimp, crab sticks, octopus, salmon, surf clam, mackerel, tuna, yellow tail and grilled eel. Prices range from B.200-550 depending upon the seafood and its country of origin, with most imported from Japan or Australia.
The next page has the sushi items (two pieces per serving) with 13 items ranging mainly between B. 140-180. Eight traditional rolls follow (six pieces per serve) at B. 120-320 and then two Soba and Udon noodles at B. 180. Please note that as this is part of the Marriott Hotel complex there will be a plus plus applied, as is the usual in these cases.
As soon as we sat down, we were made most welcome and the large cold towels were very refreshing. Well starched linen napkins were supplied, and an interesting basket-weave mini-quiver containing our individual chopsticks is in our place setting. There is also a stoneware tray with containers with chilli powder and soy sauce, to mix with the Wasabi, as you see fit. Regular readers of this column will know that Miss Terry Diner just loves Wasabi!
By the way, if you are not too adept with chopsticks, as one of my lunchtime guests was, Kabuki will supply special chopsticks, complete with rubber band to take the fumbling out of food! Great idea.
Being a working lunchtime, we turned down all the offers of saki (or wine), but instead had a wonderful iced tea, complete with tea ice cubes.
It would be difficult to name any dish we enjoyed most, as we enjoyed them all! The California Roll was an immediate hit, with the different tastes and textures of the prawn, avocado, egg, asparagus, mayonnaise and crabstick, complete with the prawn eggs on top.
I was also very taken with the Oshinko Maki which had rice around pickled Daikon, and all wrapped in seaweed, and with a deft dip of Wasabi, was absolutely delicious.
The Unagi sushi was very interesting, being a grilled smoked eel which comes with a soy glaze and toasted sesame seeds, wrapped in seaweed. This is one which is best without the Wasabi, and was wonderful.
We finished our lunch with some green tea ice cream, a very smooth palate reviver after the different tastes of the meal. I should also point out that the presentation of the individual dishes was superb, and chef Josh has obviously been very well trained by the Marriott’s kitchen operation manager Dennis Barton, who spent two years himself in the kitchens in Japan.
We went at lunchtime as a party of three, and could see why this style of eating is so popular. The food comes at the pace you want, leaving enough time for socializing or business. The concept is very easy to get along with and the photographic menu means you know what you are going to get. Chef Josh will also answer all your questions as to what you are eating. Great fun, good food. Well worth the visit! Do try.
Kabuki (inside Benihana), Second floor Royal Garden Plaza (Beach Road end), telephone 038 412 120. Open seven days, 12 noon until 10 p.m. Secure parking in the Royal Garden Plaza car park (Kabuki will stamp your parking ticket).


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