Wine from the Crazy Windmill
You’ve got to admit that in
these parts, we’re not very short of motorbikes, barber shops, mobile food
stalls and tiny shops
selling pretty
frocks for the girls. Or for the boys, if they feel so inclined. But we
could do with a few more wine shops, especially selling
wines
from Spain.
It’s one of the oldest
wine-producing
countries in Europe. Some historians claim that the
earliest
wine-making dates from between
4,000 and
3,000 B.C. In the past, most Spanish wines (apart from Sherry) were light,
undemanding and rarely seen outside the country. But around the 1960’s,
things started to improve as Spanish wine-makers began to realise the
potential of higher quality products. Today, they make some superb wines and
Spain ranks third in the top wine-producing countries. But despite its
enviable position, few Spanish wines find their way to these tropical
shores.
Berberana “Cosecha” Tinto (red),
Spain (Bt. 299 @ Tesco-Lotus)
The word “Cosecha” (koh-say-chah) is merely Spanish for “harvest” but it
appears in such big letters on the label that you could be forgiven for
assuming that it’s some kind of Spanish grape, especially if your Spanish is
limited to shouting “Olé!” from time to time. The company was founded in
1877 by the eponymous Don Miguel Martínez Berberana and it’s one of the
oldest wineries in the Rioja region. It’s also Spain’s best-selling brand,
known for its fine Riojas but also for its range of quality wines from other
parts of the country. The label, by the way, has a picture of a resplendent
golden dragon, so if you don’t like the wine very much, you can always just
sit and admire the dragon. But I think you’ll enjoy this wine, especially if
you go for light fruity reds.
Although the label doesn’t reveal the name of the grapes, I’m pretty certain
that the wine is made from Tempranillo, a native grape which has been
growing on the Iberian Peninsula since the Phoenicians showed up there. This
ruby-red wine has a mild aroma of red fruit and strawberries, with dried
herbs lurking in the background. It’s a very light-bodied and completely dry
wine with plenty of red fruit on the rather slender body. There’s just a
touch of very soft tannin and an attractive “edge” to the taste with a
pleasant, dry if rather modest finish. But at this price it’s a jolly good
wine and at 11% alcohol content it would make a good partner for snacks.
It’s a very easy drinker too and sometimes that’s exactly what’s needed if
you want a simple glugger to knock back with a light meal. It would be ideal
with pasta. You might even want to adopt it as your Daily Red.
Molino Loco Monastrell 2011 (red),
Spain (Bt. 379 @ Wine Connection)
Here’s something completely different. Molino Loco wines come from the
Castaño family vineyards which lie at over 2,000 feet above sea level in
Spain’s Murcia region, about sixty miles by road from sprawling Alicante.
The name means “crazy windmill”, and refers to one which sits at the edge of
the vineyard. Unlike normal windmills, which turn when it’s windy, this one
evidently turns only on days when there’s no wind at all. Now if you ask me,
that sounds a little bit spooky.
Anyway, the Monastrell grape is probably better known by its French name
Mourvèdre. It needs plenty of hot sun to ripen and the high hills of Murcia
are just the place. To improve the taste and texture of this particular
wine, the Monastrell was blended with 15% Syrah.
It’s is a rich, dark red with an intense aroma of cherries, plums and a dash
of spicy licorice. It needs plenty of time for the air to bring out the
aromas, so don’t rush it. At first taste, the wine seems quite powerful but
it has a soft mouth-feel with an attractive and lively touch of acidity.
It’s very dry with plenty of fruit on the taste and you might also pick up
an attractive oakiness. The tannins are quite firm and there’s a long
earthy, dry finish.
It’s a wine with plenty of character and quite assertive in style. Actually,
it’s rather a macho number, not for wimps and wusses or those of a very
delicate disposition. At a whopping 14% alcohol content, this very much a
food wine which would make an excellent partner for hearty fare; stews, rich
pasta or red meat. It would go a treat with those hefty Spanish steaks the
size of a brick, just like Mama used to make.