The
Chaîne des Rotisseurs is the oldest gourmet group in the world. Having its
origin as the Guild of Goose Roasters, dating back to 1248, the Chaîne has a
rich history.
The old French Royal
Guild of Goose Roasters was gradually expanded to include the roasting of
all poultry, meat and game. In 1248, King Louis IX assigned Etienne Boileau,
the Provost of Paris, with the task of bringing order into the organization
of trades and guilds, among them the Goose Roasters.
In 1509, during the
reign of King Louis XII, some new statutes were introduced, which resulted
in the change of the name of the guild to “Rôtisseurs” and its activities
were restricted to poultry, game birds, lamb and venison. In 1610, under
King Louis XIII, the guild was granted a royal charter and its own coat of
arms.
For over four
centuries the “Confrérie” or brotherhood of the Roasters cultivated and
developed culinary art and high standards of professionalism and quality -
standards befitting the splendor of the “Royal Table” - until the guild
system was disbanded in 1793 during the French Revolution.
The Rôtisseurs were
almost forgotten until 1950 when Dr. Auguste Becart, Jean Valby and the
self-styled “Prince” Curnonsky (Maurice Edmond Sailland), and chefs Louis
Giraudon and Marcel Dorin resurrected the Society and created La Confrérie
de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs.
With that history, it
is no wonder that the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is devoted to promoting fine
dining and preserving the camaraderie and pleasures of the table.
The head of the local
chapter (‘Bailli’) is Ranjith Chandrasiri and I was fortunate to be asked to
join him on a Chaîne tasting before the forthcoming Chaîne des Rôtisseurs
dinner to be held at Gian’s Italian restaurant.
The ‘team’ consisted
of Ranjith, myself and Guido Vietri, the owner of Gian’s. We began, as the
Chaîne members would begin, with canapés and an NV Follador Prosecco, and
from there to be seated formally at the tables which were set with four wine
glasses and cutlery settings for four courses.
The first wine was a
Cavallina Grillo Pinot Grigio 2009, correctly chilled and universally
enjoyed by the three of us. This was drunk with the first course, an apple
salad with Robiola cheese and almonds. After discussion, it was decided
that for the forthcoming dinner, Guido would reduce the amount of the apple
slices, considering that there were some more ‘heavy’ courses to come.
The next offering was
avocado and Pata Negra ham combined with a Sartori Valpolocella Classico.
This was certainly a good combination, with the wine able to ‘cut’ into the
smoothly thick avocado.
The following course
was very Italian with home-made ravioli with ricotta cheese, porcini
mushroom and black truffle. Discussion ensued as to how many drops of
truffle oil would be best to heighten the flavor. It was obvious that
nothing was being left to chance!
To go with this dish,
the first wine we were offered was a Villa Pallino Tenuta Sette Ponti
Chianti, but this was decided to be too abrasive on the palate, so a bottle
of Farnese Bio Montepulciano d’Abruzzo was opened. This was also deemed as
not suitable and Guido went to his cellar and smilingly returned with a
Feudi di San Marzano Negroamaro Puglia 2009. This one got the nod!
After that little lot,
it was certainly time for a breather and Guido provided a wonderful lemon
sherbet with champagne. Freshened the palate, and the mind!
Now ready for the main
course, a very long skewer with Australian Angus beef, New Zealand lamb,
chicken, Italian sausage and fried potatoes, arrived. Even two choices of
sausage were tried, but the Campo Viejo Rioja Crianza wine was universally
popular.
The finish was a
Tiramisu and a Grappa, and I have to admit I was ‘finished’ too!
It was very impressive
to see the cooperation being given by Guido and his chef Od, who would
happily return to his kitchen to present a different style of sausage, for
example. The concept as promoted by the brotherhood of Roasters in
developing the culinary art and high standards of professionalism and
quality are still alive today in the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs.
