They say a week is a long time in politics, and now it seems that three months
is a long time in the restaurant business. It was three months ago that we
reviewed Manhattans Early Dining menu, and enjoyed it thoroughly, but suddenly
Manhattans has now changed hands, new management, new chef, new menu items and
other changes, so we returned to the Nirvana Place venue to see and experience
the ‘new’ Manhattans Restaurant and Bar.
Alan Beilby and Dessi De Vries.
We were met by the new owner Alan Beilby, a man with a varied
background, including being mine host in some British pubs, a role he obviously
enjoyed. Acquaintance was also made with the new chef, Dessi De Vries, a very
pleasant dynamic young Dutchman with experience in Michelin star restaurants in
Europe. That background has brought about some changes and additions to the
menu, with the leaning towards the international/European cuisine.
The restaurant and cocktail bar area is unchanged, and why
would one? Superbly elegant as you would expect in a restaurant of this caliber,
and very welcoming.
We took the opportunity for a pre-dinner drink in the
cocktail area and sat and perused the new menu and the new wine list, which has
most wines now between B. 1,000 - 1,600, a very much cheaper range than before.
When we saw a Stonefish Cabernet Sauvignon, it was our immediate choice, which
was then taken away to allow it to breathe. Great drinking from this Australian
robust red.
Lamb chops
The set menu concept has been retained with two courses B.
795 or three courses B. 895, but there is now no time limit, relaxed dining
being the objective.
There are 13 appetizers (B. 275-625) with items such as
scallops and lime, lobster and avocado, duck breast and Thai caramel to tempt
you.
After starters there is a page of 12 Main dishes (B. 450-950)
including items such as pink pepper-crusted pork medallions and blue cheese with
a potato-mustard mousseline, spinach and red onion compote (B. 630).
Manhattans began as a steakhouse, and steaks get their own
page, with Canadian Black Angus, Australian Wagyu and grain-fed Australian
tenderloin, rib eye, New York strip and Chateaubriand for two. You will pay a
premium for these imported items with prices beginning at B. 670 for a 200 gm
New York strip.
Twelve Thai favorites are next (B. 190-625) and finally the
desserts with most around B. 200.
For starters we chose the Yum Talay (Thai spicy seafood
salad) for Madame and the king prawns wrapped in bacon with basil and a sweet
and spicy BBQ sauce. Both of these starters were excellent and the juicy plump
prawns were exceptional.
For mains, Madame chose the lamb chops, which came from
Australia, so you do pay a premium for this. Very, very tender with a sauce of
red port and smoked garlic with a balsamic syrup.
I had chosen the fillet of snowfish in crunchy prosciutto
breading on a Dutch potato-carrot and onion mash with a cabernet sauvignon jus.
This was remarkable in that the snowfish had retained its flavor and the jus
just added to it, not overpowering it. Young Dessi shows he understands the
subtle nuances in the kitchen.
The “new” Manhattans certainly pleased the Dining Out Team.
The luxurious ambience is still there, and the menu is more to our tastes as
well. Madame, in particular, was impressed by her choice from the Thai food
items which she said was done to Thai taste. I enjoyed my starter and main
course, and this was certainly no ‘nouvelle cuisine’ of artfully placed carrots
around a tiny portion of food. The snowfish and prosciutto ham was really too
much and I had to admit defeat, despite all my efforts. To then be faced with a
dessert, which Alan and Dessi insisted we try, was taking investigative
journalism to new heights, but the chocolate soufflé dessert was superb.
We both rated the new Manhattans very highly and can
definitely recommend you visit.
Manhattans, 482/1-4 Thappraya Road (Nirvana Place), M 12,
Jomtien, telephone 038 259 790, closed Mondays, open 5 p.m. to 10.30 p.m. Secure
parking and valet service. Complimentary pick-up in Pattaya area. Website
www.manhattans-pattaya.com.
