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Matthew Woolford
by Dr. Iain Corness
It
is every Australian schoolboy’s dream to be a sporting hero. Sport
features very high in the school curriculum. Cooking does not. Yet here
we have in the Sheraton Pattaya Resort a talented young Australian chef,
Matthew Woolford, who was well on the way to being a Rugby Union
half-back hero when his career changed, proving ultimately for the
better.
Matthew was born in Sydney, Australia. His father was a salesman for
chicken farms, whose culinary expertise went as far as boiled water and
French toast. His mother was a bank clerk who had to give up counting
money for counting children, of which Matthew was the fourth and last.
He went to a government school in Sydney which tried to keep the
attention of 600 sport mad children, and Matthew was definitely one of
those. “I was a stand-out rugby player,” said Matthew. “I was known as
‘The Blur’ and was a student representative for Sydney Juniors. I was
the half-back and imagined a career in rugby.” Unfortunately for Matthew
he tore the ligaments in his left knee and he saw his hoped-for future
contracts torn up as well. The Blur was well and truly blocked! “I had
no fall-back after sports. I was in the bottom 15 percent of the state
in academic results!” His future gone, he was washed up, and he was only
16 years old.
He had an uncle who worked in the Hilton in Sydney who suggested that he
might be able to use his influence to get the young lad into the hotel
kitchen. The 16 year old presented himself to the Swiss-German chef who
begrudgingly said that if young Matthew could work for two months,
without pay, then he would be considered for an apprenticeship. With no
alternatives, he arrived in the Hilton’s kitchen the next morning and
given the job to crack and separate 5,000 eggs! He arrived each morning
for one week to another 5,000 eggs a day. However, his persistence paid
off. The chef told him that he could start as an apprentice the
following week, as nobody had ever managed to last the egg-cracking
ordeal before! Matthew is quite philosophical about this. “It helps you
understand the work and effort in being a chef. It’s not all glamour.”
He worked there for the next two years, and like all young bloods was
quite sure he was the mainstay of the entire place. So when the
sous-chef decided to open up his own restaurant, and offered Matthew $20
a week more than he was getting at the Hilton, the young man who knew it
all was off and running. “It was the worst experience of my life,” said
Matthew. “It brought me back to earth, the 18 year old hot-shot from the
Hilton!” He ran back to the Hilton and asked for his old job back - but
it was filled, but they did find him a position in a boutique hotel in
Sydney (the Sebel Town House) which was to give him great experience.
By now Matthew was starting to spread his wings. He moved out from home
and got a flat in Sydney. He also found that you can’t afford a flat in
Sydney on an apprentice’s wages, so he had to work two jobs, averaging
three hours sleep a day. This could not last either, and when he was
offered a posting as a breakfast chef at the Regent Hotel he took it.
This property was the flagship of culinary art in Australia at that
time.
It was at the Regent that he joined their fine dining team. He became
engulfed in cooking. He was sent to France for a year. Cooking was
becoming his life. “The Regent gave me the desire to stay in food. They
gave me good role models, and I made it my goal to become a sous-chef by
the time I was 30.” He also had learned the real lesson of life. “If you
put something in, there’s benefits that come out.”
After four years with the Regent he was still only 24 years old, and was
approached to run an exclusive restaurant in the Canberra Hyatt. “This
was the first time I realized you can work 30 hours in 24 if you really
want to!”
However, Thailand was calling. He had married a Thai girl he had met in
Australia and they came to Thailand for a honeymoon, and he was blown
away by the standard of the hotels over here. Seizing the first job that
was available, he arrived in Phuket. But this was no Nirvana. “It was
the (another) worst experience of my life. The culture shock! I thought
I knew all about Thailand. I was 26 and having difficulty with
leadership. I was in management and I thought, am I a chef or a guy in a
uniform?”
Matthew took off for the kitchens in Singapore, but when SARS hit, life
looked bleak again, but for someone who offered him a helping hand. This
was David Cuddon, a fellow Aussie (and incidentally the GM of the
Sheraton in Pattaya). David took him to Krabi, and obviously nurtured
this young talent, then arranged for him to join the Sheraton in
Bangkok. “That was where I was shown how to be an executive chef,” said
Matthew simply.
Like all high-flyers in the hospitality industry, it was necessary to
keep moving and Matthew went to Seoul and then Hong Kong. It was during
this time that he developed his philosophy of food, “Restraint and
simplicity are the perfect tools for any dish.”
However, David Cuddon had been keeping an eye on his progress and
enticed the young man back to Thailand to join him in the Sheraton
Pattaya. “I like coming to work for somebody you know and respect
already,” said Matthew.
When he is not working in the kitchen, you will find Matthew with his
wife and baby daughter Ivy. “Kids change your life and your whole
perspective.” We all agree, Matthew!
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