Within sight of Taiwan on a clear day the 18 square mile
Orchid Island lies some 90 kilometers off the coast of mainline China and is
situated about 65 kilometers off Taiwan’s southeast coast. This is the
homeland of the gentle Yami people, an estimated population of just under
3,000, one of Taiwan’s 9 aboriginal tribes.
Peace
loving Yami settle their differences with mock battles. Dressed in elaborate
helmets, leather tunics and armed with decorative spears, these imitation
fights mostly involve shouts and throwing a few stones.
Sailing in the wake of their past, Yami fishermen put out
to sea in elaborate ceremonial canoes hewn from trees of their densely
forested island. Strangers to any formal authority, a hundred years of
alternating and casual rule by Chinese and Japanese have done little to
separate them from the ways of their ancestors, who - according to ancient
legend - descended from the sea.
The Yami have historically been the most isolated of
Taiwan’s aboriginal tribes, mostly for geographical and political reasons.
During the Japanese occupation of Taiwan from 1895 to the end of World War
II, the Japanese designated Orchid Island as a cultural reserve and strictly
restricted access to those conducting anthropological research. After World
War II, Orchid Island became isolated again. When the Kuomintang
Nationalists took over in 1949, they limited Yami movement by sea thereby
reducing their exposure to modern society.
Inside
a traditional Yami home painted wall carvings reveal an Austronesian
influence.
One exception to outside contact was religion and today
many Yami are Christians. Canadian missionaries arrived on Orchid Island in
1949 and managed to convert much of the population to Catholics and
Presbyterians. Later the Chinese government undertook the role of educators
and introduced primary schooling in Mandarin and subsidized the construction
of public housing.
Tourism is now part of their economy. There are hotels
for tourists and motorbikes for rent, but this little island is off the
beaten path. This speck of land caught in a time-warp is all the more
endearing for as yet having missed the horrors of mass tourism. Perhaps not
for long.
The Yami have traditionally supported themselves with
fishing and agriculture which is mainly the growing of taro and a variety of
garden vegetables. They have no sophisticated written language although they
do have a small number of pictographs. Many members of the tribe can
communicate well in Chinese and some even obtain formal education in Taiwan.
During
the flying-fish season the Yamis are able to net their food in mid-air.
A visit to Orchid Island is an adventure. A small prop
plane wings its way across the short stretch of sea and as the plane draws
near a tiny landing strip peeks below the shadows of steep mountains which
soar above narrow valleys and rugged coastline.
As a tribe the Yami have no priest or chief, but practice
a kind of naive democracy, settling their disputes by argument and debate
and sharing in the wealth of the sea that surrounds their orchid-strewn
island. At the end of the day the men may haggle over blame for a poor
day’s catch of fish, but they scrupulously divide their catch by even
shares.
During flying-fish season which lasts from February to
June, the Yamis are able to net their most abundant seafood delicacy in
mid-air. The rest of the year may not be as bountiful and the tribe
supplements their diet through spear fishing along the coral reefs.
Superstitious by nature, the Yamis distribute each catch according to size
and color; brightly colored fish for the women, dark colored fish for the
men, and small fry for the kids.
The women on Orchid Island play an equal part in tribal
life, sharing equally in inheritance and expect men to help them with
domestic chores and child rearing. They choose their own husbands and have
the option of a trial marriage which only the women can dissolve. Pretty
enlightened for even this day and age. If a Yami couple remains childless
the husband - not the wife - is held accountable.
High on the list of auspicious celebrations, infant
christenings draw relatives from all over the island to feast with the proud
hosts who use this occasion to display the family wealth. One of the most
prized possessions is the Yami silver helmet. Forged from coins acquired
from barter, helmets are passed from father to sons, with each successor
adding more coils of coins.
Visitors are requested to respect the privacy of the locals. While
basically warm and friendly, taking photographs is a sore point and
islanders often demand outrageous fees for taking pictures. Relax and enjoy
the beauty and the unique culture. This little haven of tranquility is
probably on the verge of extinction.
