A couple of years ago the Dining Out team reviewed a
little restaurant in Ban Amphur called Hoo Kwang Seafood. It was
‘funky’, to be kind, but had good food and you could actually sit on the
beach and enjoy your dinner, and that was half the attraction.
We ventured back a few times, but towards the end of 2004
we noticed that it had closed and building works were in progress. We
presumed that was the end of Hoo Kwang - but we were wrong. It has been
resurrected by Wiraya Lakornrach and partner Olivier, renamed the Malabar
Restaurant, and has now been open for two months. It was time for us to
renew our acquaintance.
Getting there is simple. Head out along Sukhumvit Road
towards Sattahip, and turn right at the second set of traffic lights after
Tesco-Lotus. This is in the small township of Ban Amphur (shortly after
Ambassador City Jomtien and long before Bang Saray). Follow the road round
to the left, pass the two huge tourist trap seafood restaurants on the right
and look for the Malabar signs. The first on the left is overflow parking,
and the second on the right is the park directly outside the restaurant.
As soon as we got out of the car, we noticed that the
make-over had been a total one. The entrance area is now light, bright and
inviting, as was the bar/cocktails area on the left. The big tree (a ‘hoo
kwang’ from which the original restaurant got its name) is still there,
but now artistically lit and at the base of a large U-shaped covered
terrace. Between the two arms of the terrace are some more tables, and this
then leads you down on to the beach, where there are more tables and chairs.
This is still the only ‘real’ restaurant where you can get the sand
between your toes, if that is your wish! The table settings are now of a
much higher standard, and china plates are being used, along with good
quality cutlery (no Uri Geller spoons!).
The
menu is in Thai and English and starts with Squid dishes, with the majority
being B. 120, including salads, deep fried or tempura style. Shellfish done
in different ways range between B. 80-120, while crab prices reflect
seasonal variation.
There are 26 varieties of the prawn, shrimp, rock lobster
theme, with the most expensive dish only B. 200, but there are some items
sold by weight, as is usual in seafood restaurants.
20 choices of fish dishes with many by weight, but others
very reasonably priced, as are the many choices in seafood combinations, of
which many are offered as small or large portions, with most around B. 120.
Beverages are also moderately priced with a large Singha
beer only B. 75, or Heineken B. 90. There is also a small choice of wines
covering Chilean, Spanish, French and Italian with most in the B. 600-800
range.
We tried several dishes from the menu including a crab in
yellow curry, the Malabar fried noodle, tempura squid and prawns in choo
chee curry. Despite my usual assertions that crab represents too much work
for too little return, I have to admit I found the yellow curry sauce
particularly good, while Madame was quite happy cracking crab legs! The
Malabar fried noodle was another flavoursome dish, as was the goong (prawns)
choo chee which comes Thai style with heads. Madame enjoyed them all!
It was a most enjoyable return to the venue. The new
owners have raised the restaurant to new heights, and it is now a very
‘classy’ establishment, but one where you can still enjoy good food and
get the sand between the toes. Prices have not gone up very much at all, and
are still generally less than other seafood restaurants along the coastline.
Definitely worth the (short) trip to Ban Amphur. Highly recommended. (On our
evening, the restaurant filled up very quickly, so booking a table might be
advisable.)
Malabar Restaurant, 46/6 Moo 4, Na Jomtien, Ban Amphur, telephone 038 238
470. Open seven days, 11 a.m. until late. Secure parking in front of
restaurant.
