We
wafted down the sweeping staircase to the Grill Room, passing the Wine
Cellar, to our reserved alcove table. We were met by three service personnel
who greeted us as if we were the most important people in the world,
silently ushering comfy chairs under our bottoms, lighting candles and
making sure we were relaxed.
The restaurant itself is in the main building of the
resort, and is in a large “L” shape, with much use of natural wood on
the walls and the ceiling, while overlooking a grassy garden area outside.
It has a hushed, unhurried air to it, again heightened by the completely
professional and yet friendly and very competent service staff.
Our orders were taken, and repeated back faultlessly, and
we began with a complimentary plump mussel in the shell with a hint of
coriander, just enough to whet the appetite for what was to come.
The soup I had chosen as a starter was a Scampi Bisque
flamed with cognac. The flamb้ trolley was wheeled to our alcove and
the food theatre played out perfectly. I loved the ceremony and loved the
soup. A good choice, believe me.
A word or two about the menu. Like all good restaurants,
there are always changes, so take the time to peruse fully. Cold appetizers
are generally in the 200-300 baht range, including a smoked mackerel with
pepper and trout fillet on cranberry-horseradish sauce at B. 220. Soups are
around B. 150, followed by warm appetizers around B. 220.
Dedicated fish dishes and the lamb grills are around B.
300-600, with the combination of tenderloin of grilled pork and pan-fried
rock lobster at B. 350 looking very interesting. Mains are around B. 550,
and of course there are many dessert choices.
Being with the Royal Cliff Beach Resort’s wine expert,
Ranjith, does have its advantages. We began with an Australian chardonnay
from Tyrells Wines, a Vat 47 Pinot Chardonnay, 1998 vintage. A superb wine.
This we followed with a Sally’s Paddock red from Victoria, Australia. This
was a most complex wine made from Cabernet sauvignon grapes, plus Merlot,
Cabernet franc and Shiraz, and was decanted at the table, again with much
ceremony.
The evening was totally memorable. The food was superb
and the service likewise. The ambience is probably without peer in Thailand,
and on reflection later, I believe that this stems in no small part from the
fact that everyone dines in ‘private’ alcoves. You may be in a
restaurant, but you are dining only with those at your table, not with all
the other diners in a large ‘eating hall’ no matter how nicely
appointed. You cannot help but be impressed with this restaurant. (The Wine
Spectator people were impressed enough to present it with their Award of
Excellence!)
I would recommend that you do, as we did, start at the
Piano Bar and glide down to the Grill Room and Wine Cellar to enjoy what
will be a fantastic evening. An example of the world’s best, right here in
Pattaya. Not a cheap evening, but the best never is. Highest recommendation
possible.
The Grill Room and Wine Cellar, Royal Cliff Beach Resort,
353 Pratamnak Road, Pattaya, telephone 038 250 421.
Madame
and I dined with the president of the Royal Cliff Wine Club, who is also the
resident manager of the Royal Cliff Grand, Ranjith Chandrasiri, and his
lovely wife Chitra. We met in the Piano Bar, and shared a bottle of the
Royal Cliff’s own label sparkling white wine, but even before we began, it
was obvious that this was going to be a special evening, with exemplary
service from the staff at the Piano Bar making us welcome.