DINING OUT - ENTERTAINMENT

Mata Hari

All the fun, without the firing squad!

by Miss Terry Diner

What a way to start the New Year! Dinner with Louis Noll, the new president of the local chapter of the world-famous gastronomic group, the Chaine des Rotisseurs. The Dining Out Team accomplished that by visiting Louis at his restaurant, the Mata Hari.

It had been over a year since we paid an “official” visit to Mata Hari, and in that time, Louis, who admits that, “I like playing with my restaurant”, had made some changes. The first and most obvious was the menu - not only have items been added, changed, deleted or otherwise manipulated, but it has a new format. As before, it is in English, Dutch and Thai (there are also German, Italian and French translations), but the story of Mata the martyr has gone - but Louis is willing to relate her firing squad fate if you are not aware of what really happened to one of Europe’s most famous ‘mia nois’.

The menu begins with five soups, generally around 100 baht, headed by an interesting Mediterranean fish soup and then runs into four salads (B. 150-250) with an avocado and prawn at the top end and then four pastas (B. 220-260) including a spinach and ricotta ravioli with smoked salmon in lobster sauce. Louis can be adventurous!

Ten starters are next (B. 150-250) and includes smoked salmon, a beef or salmon carpaccio, grilled oysters and scallops on creamed spinach and grilled cheese sauce. The choices of main courses are enormous (19, plus blackboard specials) and range between B. 240-395. These cover all meats and fish and what is not generally known is that Louis imports all his own northern hemisphere fish direct, so if it is on the menu, it has been correctly transported. All the mains come with salad or vegetables and a choice of four potato styles.

There is also a dedicated Thai menu (B. 100-220) including all the popular items in soups, salads, curries, stir-fries and rice and noodle dishes. The blackboard items change regularly and on our evening included monkfish, turbot, crocodile satays and beluga caviar! Miss Terry was sorely tempted!

A brief word on the restaurant itself. It is not large, but rather could be called ‘intimate’ with well drilled service staff, and of course, the larger than life, ebullient Louis! The tablecloths are linen, as are the napkins, and the cutlery and glassware are of high standard. The background music is not intrusive - it is a restaurant atmosphere that encourages unhurried indulgence.

We began with the grilled oysters for me and a spicy mixed seafood salad (Thai menu) for Madame. Both were excellent, and the prawns in the salad were delicious (and spicy). To wash it all down, we stuck with the house white - an Australian wine, which is drunk from some new exquisite long stem crystal glasses. The starters were also followed by Louis’ own sorbet, on our evening it was mango.

For mains, I had ordered a US sirloin green peppercorn steak, while Madame had selected the sea-wolf fish item. The steak was superb, and cooked exactly to my order, and Madame’s fish, a white meat similar to cod, was also excellent. To go with my main, Louis presented me with a veritable goldfish bowl sized glass of house red wine (Australian Hardy’s). The salads came as a side plate and included fresh garden vegetables.

Desserts? Miss Terry never eats desserts, unless she is at Mata Hari, where the Cr่me Brulee Amoretto is to die for (Mata did)! Louis tried to tempt me with his made in-house Tiramisu, but the attraction of the Cr่me Brulee was too strong.

Mata Hari impressed the nobility of Europe with her dancing. The Mata Hari Restaurant impressed the Dining Out Team with the inventive cuisine and excellent food at very reasonable prices. In the ‘value for money’ stakes, it would be hard to find better in Pattaya. It is always a delightful experience to eat there, and Louis’ presence as a raconteur just adds to it all. Again, very highly recommended.

Mata Hari Brasserie, 216/3 M9, Pattaya 2 Road, between Soi 8 and Soi 7, telephone 038 420 939 or email [email protected]