The Australian Challenge
It’s something of an effort trying to remember who makes what in the Australian
wine business. So often, it turns out that one wine company acquires another
one; a bigger company comes along and takes over both, only to be followed by an
even bigger fish that swallows the whole lot.
Paul Lapsley, Chief Red
Winemaker.
Taras wines are produced by Emu Wines, which had its origins
in London’s Hanover Square way back in the nineteenth century. Over the years,
the company bought up wineries around the world and especially Australia. Emu
was then bought by Hardys in 1976 and in 2008 the company changed its name to
Constellation Wines and became owned by Constellation wines of the USA. In June
2011, the company changed its name again to Accolade Wines. You see what I mean?
It’s a bit of a challenge.
Here are a couple of wines from Accolade that you can pick up
at most local branches of Family Mart and other larger supermarkets. I’m not
entirely sure why an Australian wine should be given the Ukrainian name “Taras”.
Perhaps it’s inspired by Gogol’s depressing historical novel, which tells the
story of Taras Bulba and his two sons. Or perhaps it comes from the orchestral
rhapsody Taras Bulba by the Czech composer Leo? Janแ่ek. Perhaps “Taras”
refers to The Alberta Reptile and Amphibian Society. Or on second thoughts,
perhaps it doesn’t.
Taras Bin 681 Cabernet
Sauvignon 2010 (red),
Australia. (Family Mart and others, Bt. 449)
Anyway, the wine turns out to be a very dark, intense red
with a distinctive aroma of black fruit, blackberries and ripe cherries. There’s
a touch of oaky spiciness on the smell too. The taste comes as a surprise, for
it’s quite assertive on the palate; plenty of fruit but distinctly dry. There’s
a good dash of firm tannins too, which comes through especially on the finish.
In contrast to many of today’s Australian reds that seem to
be easy-drinking crowd pleasers, the company’s chief red wine-maker Paul Lapsley
has given this one a stronger character. This Cabernet is very much a “take me
as you find me type”. It’s quite a macho little number really and rather
attractive in its way. It cries out for food and at 13.5% that’s not a bad idea.
Try it with roasts, rich red meat dishes or even strong cheese. But not with
Cheddar please. I keep explaining to the dogs (who, to my dismay are actually
quite fond of cheese) that Cabernet Sauvignon never works with Cheddar, or many
other British cheeses for that matter. Never.
I know this is supposed to be a wine column, but if you want
my humble opinion, the best thing to drink with British Cheddar is a glass of
ice-cold beer.
Taras Bin 681 Chardonnay 2011
(white), Australia. (Family Mart and others, Bt. 449)
Here’s a decent, basic Chardonnay with a typical lemony-gold
colour and hints of green. There’s a pleasant and quite sophisticated whiff of
peppery pineapple (if you can imagine that), melon and peach, a dash of lemon
and the aromas of dry herbs in the background.
There’s plenty of citrus fruitiness on the palate and a
lively cut of acidity, which makes this medium-bodied wine taste crisp and
refreshing. It’s really dry but quite an easy-drinker, with the slightest
suggestion of sweet fruitiness. There’s a longish and attractive dry finish too.
With its bright oaky freshness and 13% alcohol content, I’d guess this wine
would work well with food, especially fish dishes or lightly cooked chicken.
Fish or chicken in a light creamy sauce would work well too, because the sharp
and zesty taste of the wine would make a pleasing contrast and it would “cut”
the texture of the sauce. It would make a good partner for soft and creamy
cheeses like Brie, Camembert or St. Paulin.
To be honest, because of Thai duty and tax, I think this wine
comes out a bit expensive for what you actually get, but because it’s easily
available at lots of Family Mart outlets around here, it could really save the
day if you run out of wine half way through your chicken nuggets.