The Balcony Restaurant seems to have spent quite some
time, effort and money, in metamorphosis over the past few years. It was
originally an up-market restaurant, almost fine dining, along the tiny Soi
Ananthakul. However, following renovations to the building by the owners,
the restaurant was moved to the other side, a garden setting instituted and
the restaurant direction was more towards a ‘coffee shop’. This was
again a successful venture, but at the end of last year, the original
up-market section was totally renovated, in a make-over that included all
the restaurant fittings and equipment, and re-opened in addition to the
coffee shop area. It was to this new section that the Dining Out team
visited.
The ‘new’ venue is simply stunning on walking in.
Subdued lighting with candles on the tables, cream walls with gold accents,
gold/yellow throw-overs on the tables, regency striped high-backed chairs
and a sea of gold edged crockery, with the gold motif also on the condiment
cruet sets. The cutlery is polished Thai bronze and again gives that
‘golden glow’ appearance. The overall ambience is one of ‘class’.
The menu is not a large one, but has been selected to
give a broader choice than is often found at this level of dining. It begins
with five soups (B. 150-190) which includes a Mediterranean fisherman’s
soup.
Cold appetizers (B. 230-300) include the renowned Balcony
mango salad, always a favourite. Hot appetizers (B. 250-510) have French
classic frog legs and pan-fried goose liver in VSOP brandy.
The
main courses, of which there are 16, cover pork, lamb, beef and seafood, and
are generally under B. 500, other than an imported NZ 200 gm T-bone steak at
B. 900. Finally there are two pages of Thai specialities.
The wine list is not extensive, or expensive, with most
bottles between B. 1,700-2,000. Both old and new worlds are represented,
with vineyards from France, Italy, Australia and South Africa.
Before our appetizer orders arrived, we were given an
Amuse Bouche, quite spicy and really sparkled up the palate. A great start.
We then began with a tomato and mozzarella appetizer for
Madame, while I had chosen the Australian scallops in a creamy cheese sauce.
With both appetizers, the chef had not been sparing, a complete plate with
tomato slices and cheese, and six scallop shells, with each having two very
plump scallops and oodles of cheese sauce.
Before our mains arrived, a very pleasant mango sorbet
was presented to get us ready for the next course. For Madame, this was a
beef fillet, while I had gone for the shrimps stir-fried in lemon-brandy
sauce. Before we had even picked up our bronze knives we both remarked just
how large the servings were, and both on warm plates, as all better
restaurants should do. The fillet was cooked to order (medium rare is always
safest with local beef), while my prawns were plump and not overdone, and
the sauce particularly tasty.
After much coaxing, we shared a wickedly indulgent desert
with the table, just to get to use the wonderful gold plates again! Well,
that was our excuse.
The Balcony is one of those restaurants that makes you
want to linger longer. The chairs were so comfortable, and the ambience so
warm and inviting that we did not want to leave. The menu is varied enough
to cover all tastes (including a Thai cuisine selection), and the portion
sizes are extremely generous. Certainly not a lonely prawn cowering on one
side, with a floral tomato and oh-so-artistically arranged asparagus on the
other, as ‘nouvelle cuisine’ tends to be!
If it is a while since you have dined at The Balcony, it
is time to try this venue again. If nothing else, just to eat off gold
crockery. Remember too, that The Balcony is famous for its bakery, and in
the coffee shop there is a wonderful selection in the showcase for you to
take home.
The Balcony, 151/35 Moo 5, Soi Ananthakul, North Pattaya Road (opposite
city hall), telephone 038 411 429. Secure parking behind restaurant. Open
seven days for dinner from 7 p.m. (All day dining available in the Balcony
Coffee Shop.)
