DINING OUT - ENTERTAINMENT

The Balcony

New without being ‘nouvelle’

by Miss Terry Diner

The Balcony Restaurant seems to have spent quite some time, effort and money, in metamorphosis over the past few years. It was originally an up-market restaurant, almost fine dining, along the tiny Soi Ananthakul. However, following renovations to the building by the owners, the restaurant was moved to the other side, a garden setting instituted and the restaurant direction was more towards a ‘coffee shop’. This was again a successful venture, but at the end of last year, the original up-market section was totally renovated, in a make-over that included all the restaurant fittings and equipment, and re-opened in addition to the coffee shop area. It was to this new section that the Dining Out team visited.

The ‘new’ venue is simply stunning on walking in. Subdued lighting with candles on the tables, cream walls with gold accents, gold/yellow throw-overs on the tables, regency striped high-backed chairs and a sea of gold edged crockery, with the gold motif also on the condiment cruet sets. The cutlery is polished Thai bronze and again gives that ‘golden glow’ appearance. The overall ambience is one of ‘class’.

The menu is not a large one, but has been selected to give a broader choice than is often found at this level of dining. It begins with five soups (B. 150-190) which includes a Mediterranean fisherman’s soup.

Cold appetizers (B. 230-300) include the renowned Balcony mango salad, always a favourite. Hot appetizers (B. 250-510) have French classic frog legs and pan-fried goose liver in VSOP brandy.

The main courses, of which there are 16, cover pork, lamb, beef and seafood, and are generally under B. 500, other than an imported NZ 200 gm T-bone steak at B. 900. Finally there are two pages of Thai specialities.

The wine list is not extensive, or expensive, with most bottles between B. 1,700-2,000. Both old and new worlds are represented, with vineyards from France, Italy, Australia and South Africa.

Before our appetizer orders arrived, we were given an Amuse Bouche, quite spicy and really sparkled up the palate. A great start.

We then began with a tomato and mozzarella appetizer for Madame, while I had chosen the Australian scallops in a creamy cheese sauce. With both appetizers, the chef had not been sparing, a complete plate with tomato slices and cheese, and six scallop shells, with each having two very plump scallops and oodles of cheese sauce.

Before our mains arrived, a very pleasant mango sorbet was presented to get us ready for the next course. For Madame, this was a beef fillet, while I had gone for the shrimps stir-fried in lemon-brandy sauce. Before we had even picked up our bronze knives we both remarked just how large the servings were, and both on warm plates, as all better restaurants should do. The fillet was cooked to order (medium rare is always safest with local beef), while my prawns were plump and not overdone, and the sauce particularly tasty.

After much coaxing, we shared a wickedly indulgent desert with the table, just to get to use the wonderful gold plates again! Well, that was our excuse.

The Balcony is one of those restaurants that makes you want to linger longer. The chairs were so comfortable, and the ambience so warm and inviting that we did not want to leave. The menu is varied enough to cover all tastes (including a Thai cuisine selection), and the portion sizes are extremely generous. Certainly not a lonely prawn cowering on one side, with a floral tomato and oh-so-artistically arranged asparagus on the other, as ‘nouvelle cuisine’ tends to be!

If it is a while since you have dined at The Balcony, it is time to try this venue again. If nothing else, just to eat off gold crockery. Remember too, that The Balcony is famous for its bakery, and in the coffee shop there is a wonderful selection in the showcase for you to take home.

The Balcony, 151/35 Moo 5, Soi Ananthakul, North Pattaya Road (opposite city hall), telephone 038 411 429. Secure parking behind restaurant. Open seven days for dinner from 7 p.m. (All day dining available in the Balcony Coffee Shop.)