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Team Building in the mist

Pattaya’s community pays respects to beloved matriarch On Thappajug

How to play the bagpipes

Team Building in the mist

Story by Sue K.
Photos by Dave Malhotra

It has become a tradition for me to scoop up volunteering family youngsters once a year and take them to a place far away from their parents’ reach. The moms and dads’ mental health in general could be in serious danger if they stayed together for too long during the holidays. Thus, the team building excuse was introduced.

A rose in the north.

The age range of the volunteering batch changes every year. Last year it was from age 11 to 25. This year the 22 and ups were fully employed, so what was left were the jobless kids from ages 13 to 21 years.

After giving my bosses hard times for the whole year, I decided to give myself a break from work and really go as far as I could (afford). Either far south or far north.

The scenic Mat Cliff Water Fall

Since it was winter holidays I decided we should give winter a go and taste the chilly crisp air up north.

I read somewhere that to make life meaningful you should go to a place you have never been to at least once a year. That’s how Mae Hong Son came to mind.

Sheep graze on the royal project grounds.

All together, 7 members converged on Hua Lampong train station and headed north on a night sleeper.

Khun Charn waited patiently at Chiang Mai station with his mini-van the following morning and off we went, up the hills, down the slopes, left into the jungle, and right into our little adventure of 245 km via Amphoe Pai. It took us 5 hours with some short pee, view, and stretch stops.

You mean we have to actually paddle-ourselves?

Mae Hong Son is Thailand’s second northern provincial city, set in valleys hemmed by jungle ridge and has a cool climate through the year. In the past, this town was a mysterious land, isolated from other cities in the Lanna region because of a lack of good transportation and communication. No paved road until 1968!

Dave (shown here rafting, right) said, “The train journey was fun. The rafting was a cool experience. But the most memorable thing was the team spirit that we had. It was commendable.”

The province is bordered by Myanmar to the north and west, and a strong Burmese influence can be seen in many temples, buildings and in the lifestyle. As the story goes, about 1831, Chao Kaew Muang Ma was sent from Chiang Mai to capture wild elephants, and not wanting to herd them back, the hunters built an elephant kraal near the River Pai, thus a small community flourished.

Vicky trekking with help. “The trekking part will forever be in my memory. Without Eddy, Dave, and Chris, I would not have made it through the mountain forest. Without Alisa and Marisa I would not have laughed when I was crying in pain, and without Aunty Sue’s mental support, I would not have discovered my inner bravery and strength. I owe this to all of them and love them even more now.”

Until 1874, one of Thai-Yai refugees from Myanmar was assigned by Chao Inthavitchayanon from Chiang Mai to rule this community. His name was “ChanKaLay” or “Phaya Singhanartracha”, the first local ruler of Mae Hong Son.

Sue, group leader: “Is it this way or that way?”

After his death, his wife was selected to rule this small city and had several local rulers. In 1900, King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) united this city with Chiang Mai to become a northern state. In 1933, the city became one of Thailand’s provinces named “Mae Hong Son”, administrated by a governor, designated by the King.

The nickname of this city, “City of Three Mists” or “Muang Sam Mok” was felt on our first morning as we set off on our first tour with Charn for the Mat Cliff Water Fall.

Enlightened and refreshed by the hot spring (from left) Eddy, Marisa, Chris, Sue, Alisa and Vicky.

Chris, a rock climber from Germany ‘ape’ jumped from one rock to another, and drew wowwws and whoahss from the female members of the group. Alisa tried to follow suit, but came back with a pale face when she discovered her new digital camera fell out of her pocket and into the fall. At least the fish will get their bits and bytes from it for a while.

Marisa: “C’mon let’s dance to celebrate your neck before you are ringed! ... What impressed me most was the cooperation and effort everyone put in when faced with challenging tasks. ... The Long Neck village was fascinating.”

After the waterfall and camera fall, we went on to the Pang Tong Palace, a royal residence surrounded by a variety of beautiful plants, flowers and grazing sheep on a hill overlooking Pai River.

Start of a Long Neck life at the age of 5.

On the way back, we stopped at a hot spring and visited Mok Cham Pae mud spa, where the 7 were masked with cool natural mud. Fifteen minutes and a rinse later, it revealed a 10 years younger look on everyone’s face. Marisa, age 13, now looks like a three year old.

The night wound down with a nice Lanna dinner at the hotel and an international amateur championship singing contest, where Chris became the singing star in one night.

Who’s who under the clay pack?

The next day was D-day - the test of teamwork and endurance of the members. After breakfast we set off on rafting along the Pai River. The two-hour estimated journey took us over three hours. Blame it on the still water. Members looking for the excitement of strong rapids entertained themselves by hitting other members with their oars, jumping into the cold water, or doing exactly the opposite of what the local village guide wanted us to do.

Alisa (left) singing the blues away: “I lost my most valuable possession during the trip, my digital camera, but I’ve gained thousands of precious moments spent with family and friends. Being part of this great team made me laugh through all crises.”

When told to steer left, we went right and to steer right, we went left. That was to get some excitement from the raft being stuck to the rocks every now and then. Some even unpacked their lunch boxes and ate the wet rice that already fell into the water that filled half the raft, to kill boredom. The water was so calm that we could even unpack ‘prik nam pla’ (fish sauce and chilli) to go with the khao pad (fried rice).

Chris Schmidt in the middle leads the aspiring group of future rock stars.

After two hours when it became obvious that without cooperation in synchronized paddle work, we were not going to get anywhere anytime soon. Teamwork was put into action and within one hour we reached the designated river bank to start our next challenge - hiking.

Eddy (second from left): “I was really impressed by the friendliness of the local people up there, unlike the big cities where people care less about others, as well as their environment.”

The trek took us through breathtaking mountain scenery along ancient trails, streams, brooks, and rivers. We walked into the forest, up the steep trails, across the mountains, and down the slippery slope. The four hour walk not only tested our endurance, but also our patience and sense of being part of family; to care and look out for each other. When one gives up, another will encourage, when the other falls, there is always someone to back up and pull them through.

After 7 kilometers of bruises, sweat, and tears, the deep forest trekking and rugged trail treading ended at the Karen Long Neck Women village at dusk, much to Vicky’s relief. Hard work paid off, and everyone had a great sense of accomplishment.

The Long Neck village, to me, was a bit commercialized I thought, because foreigners have to pay 250 baht to go in, but oh well, they probably need the money for neck maintenance.

Karen women still attach brass rings to their necks and limbs to give them what they consider a good appearance. Some young Karen girls about 5-7 years old already have them. The number of rings increases according to their age. The rings are taken off while bathing and sleeping only. The secret of long-neck is that the clavicles and rib cages are pressed lower and lower which makes the neck seem longer. “It’s tradition,” one woman told us. “It makes us look more attractive.”

That night a few of our members just conked out as I had hoped. All were exhausted from the day’s activities and couldn’t care less for the karaoke championships anymore, except the two older ones who were still celebrating their legal age identification cards and had a few more drinks and some singing before going to bed.

We departed the next morning, with a short stop at Wat Phra Tart Doi Kong Mu, the hilltop temple with a wonderful view of the town and surrounding countryside. This temple was built in 1874 by “Phaya Singhanatracha”, the first ruler of Mae Hong Son.

The main Chedi (stupa) holds 7 Buddha images with different posts for each day of the week. The rite is to walk around the chedi once and stop in front of your own birth “day” to light up scent sticks and candles and ask for blessings.

Then we proceeded into the temple sala where we tried our luck with fortune sticks or ‘Kau Chime’, the oldest known method of fortune telling in the world. It is a set of 78 numbered sticks held in a bamboo case. Holding the container with both hands and shaking it causes one of the sticks to rise and fall out. The number on the stick is cross-referenced with ancient texts, and a fortune is told in a short poem or rhyme.

One of our team dropped her jaw when her fortune read, “Your luck does not come easily. When wishing for someone handsome, you will only get his buffalo instead. However, be patient and all will be well.” We wondered if it meant the buffalo would turn into a prince after a kiss.

After team maintenance, we boarded the bus and started our journey back to Chiang Mai train station.

Before dinner, each of us reminisced over the previous 5 days together, which passed by so fast it was hard to believe it was time to part again. But did we take back anything from the trip at all? Everybody had their own favorite bit to store in their fond memory box.

Karaoke was new to me, and obviously one either needs a huge amount of self-confidence or lots of alcohol to sing in front of other people for the first time. But everyone in the group so strongly supported my pop-star ambition and virtually lifted me to the microphone. I realized I really enjoyed singing. The mutual respect and help shown in this respect was mirrored during the whole trip, and was the biggest single point I came upon.

To a lot of people, team leader’s criteria sounds demanding and hard to achieve: Commitment to members, desire to support, to serve, and to lead. Endless enthusiasm, energy, inspiration, and sufficient expertise. Then you also must be willing to shoulder responsibility rather than passing the buck, and finally the ability to make the team come together to achieve the common goal.

Sounds like rolling the mortar up the hill (khen khrok kuen Pu Khao) doesn’t it? However, I did not feel that I had to lead or to tell the members what they had to do.

Everybody had a share of opinion in everything we decided upon, from the youngest member all the way up to the oldest. What to eat, where to go, how far to go, and what time to leave.

Strong support from team members with their suggestions and contributions made the team building process achieve more as a team. It was a very valuable experience for me and I’m lucky to have worked with such a cooperative, caring, humorous, and positive group. I can’t wait for the next trip to be the Lord of the Lings (monkeys) again.


Pattaya’s community pays respects to beloved matriarch On Thappajug

Staff Reporters

Thousands of members of Pattaya’s community turned out to pay their last respects to On Thappajug, mother of well-known community leader and businessperson, Sophin Thappajug. Family members and staff of the Diana Group began proceedings on January 10 with the first day of funeral rites taking place at Chaimongkol Temple.

Judge Patinya Sootsuwan head of the regional court in Chonburi presides over the funeral rites and made merit by presenting holy robes to the monks.

Prayer services were conducted nightly with much of the city’s community and respected officials joining in to pay tribute to the woman who had helped so many throughout her lifetime.

The cremation ceremony took place on Friday January 16 as family and friends said their final goodbyes following a lengthy religious ceremony.

Sophin Thappajug received tremendous support from friends in the community during this emotional time.

As part of the afternoon On’s only daughter, Sophin Thappajug, donated funds on behalf of her mother to the Pattaya Orphanage, the Banglamung School, SOS Rice projects and scholarship funding for children at Pattaya’s 10 city schools totaling 500,000 baht. Representatives from each of the organizations were present to receive the generous donations. The formal cremation ceremonies followed shortly thereafter.

Hundreds, perhaps thousands gathered at this beautiful setting to say goodbye.

On Thappajug was born in 1921 in the northern province of Chiang Mai. The daughter of Dung and Them Surinam, both farmers, she later married Dundee Thappajug. The happy couple gave birth to a single child, Sophin, currently the managing director of the Diana Group and Associate Judge of the Chonburi Juvenile and Family Court.

Sopin Thappajug’s children, Phakkawat Pupha and Sophawadee Mack presented donations to the various organizations in Pattaya, one of which was the Redemptorist School for the Handicapped.

Throughout her life, as difficult as it was, On Thappajug saw the value of a good education and worked hard to send her only daughter to school in Chiang Mai, and later on to university. Throughout this time On Thappajug also studied hard to learn as much as she could, and at the height of World War 2, when the Japanese army occupied the region, she learned enough Japanese to get by, as did her daughter and nieces and nephews.

Manat Kongwatana Head of the Administration Organization of Educational Institutions in Pattaya receives a kind donation from Phakkawat.

A family life filled with joy and sorrow, On Thappajug’s hard work paid off, affording the family a better life. As part of this, Khun Mae Oon, as she is known, always liked to help others in need, make merit, and for this she was a much loved and highly respected member of the community.

Children from the Redemptorist Center for Street Kids console Aunty Noi.

A lifetime of hard work, helping those in need and a strong character finally took its toll and she fell ill. In 2001 she developed cancer of the gall bladder and bravely fought the disease, which eventually she succumbed to on the evening of January 9, 2004, at the age of 83.

She is survived by her only daughter, Sophin Thappajug and her grandson and grand daughter, Phakkawat Pupha and Sophawadee Mack, both successful business people in their own right.


How to play the bagpipes

Dougal

The bagpipes, or more colloquially ‘the pipes’, is a pluralistically singular instrument, the music of which is either liked or loathed. It is a junior member of that vast array of wind instruments, whose chieftains may be said to be the great grand pipe organs of the Gothic cathedrals or that majestic musical engine of the fairground, the steam Calliope.

It can be ranked with the trumpet, the bugle, and the drum as a military instrument. But unlike the authoritarian tenor of the trumpet, whose fanfare heralds the announcement of great events or news, or the note of the bugle whose sound begets a movement to a prearranged order, or the drums whose cadence measures the pace of the march or stroke of an oar; the pipes, when skirling, is the music of heroic action and vitality and in lament they give comfort to hearts of the mourning.

The pipes are an instrument that has to be given life to be heard. Unlike other wind instruments that when lying dormant can produce a note on a breath, or the stringed instruments that produce a note at a touch, the pipes must be fondled and coaxed into life by their player.

In idleness they could be said to resemble the form of a goose that has had a brief encounter of the terminal kind with a semi-trailer on a motorway; that is, flat, splayed and multicoloured. Flat, in that the bag is deflated, splayed in that the wooden drones, chanter and blow-stick are spread-eagled and multicoloured owing to the tartan or plaid of the bag cover.

To give them life one picks up the bundle of leather, cloth and sticks, as gently as one would an injured kitten. The bag, of elk hide within its tartan cover, is gently gathered in the crook of the left arm, with its neck facing forward. The neck of course is connected to the chanter, which will hang down ahead droopily. In the nape of the neck is found the blow-stick to which is attached the mouthpiece, which should now be placed between the lips. Aft of the blow-stick down the spine of the bag are three more sticks, namely the bass drone and the two tenor drones. The sticks should be so arranged that they lead to the left, over the left shoulder. These sticks and pipes are made of African Blackwood and, in the case of the blow stick, may be beautifully carved. Here a word of warning: if you are the type of person who gets an erotic sensation from stroking a Jacobean table leg, then the pipes are not for you.

Now with the bag gently grasped under the left arm and balanced forward in the palm of the right hand, the fingers of the left hand bearing on the stock of the chanter, take a very deep breath, expanding ones chest to the utmost and then gently exhale and inflate the crushed elkskin until the bag beneath your arm takes its shape. It should be noted that ladies whose cup is anything larger than an ‘A’ size, would be better off playing the Recorder.

Once the bag has taken its form the pipes are ready to play.

So now, gently, commence moving the left elbow in a reciprocating sideways motion alternately squeezing and releasing the bag whilst breathing evenly into the mouthpiece. The result should be a continuous indeterminate droning sound being emitted by the three drone pipes. Blow a little harder and manipulate the fingers over the holes in the chanter and with luck a note may issue from the chanter sole that has some semblance to a note in the diatonic scale; alternatively it may sound like the last scream of a cat in-extremis. Do not lose heart; bear in mind that in adversity, perseverance is the best way forward.

In your first exercises on the pipes, it is best to concentrate on blowing a single recognisable note, any note, it doesn’t matter at this stage. Once this is achieved, one can then go on to another note and remember you only have the notes A, B, C, D, E, F and G, never mind the sharps and flats, these can come later. Once you can trill comfortably up and down the scale the time has come to attempt a tune, which of course is a series of notes played consecutively. Stick to something simple, ‘Annie Laurie’, ‘Danny Boy’ – ‘The Barren Rocks of Aden’ or ‘Scotland the Brave’ should be left until you are more accomplished.

You will no doubt be aware that the pipes are considered by some to be the most environmentally unfriendly of instruments, hence the reason for many pipers to march up and down outside whilst they play. Thus as a complete novice, the best place to commence learning the bagpipes is at Lands End, where the pipes are not appreciated and if one practices and walks, say, a mile or two a day, one will ultimately reach John ‘o Groat’s where they are and by which time you will be able to play like the Cock o’ The North.

Finally, do not try to sing whilst playing the pipes, apart from being nigh impossible unless you have some form of nasal deformity, the results can only add to the miseries of abuse and brickbats that will be cast your way as you noisily pass by the mass of the great unwashed on your way from Land’s End to John o’Groats.



Skal International