DINING OUT - ENTERTAINMENT

Mata Hari

Not an intriguing spy, but an intriguing restaurant

The Mata Hari Restaurant is no ‘new kid’ on the block, and after eight years is probably one of the most established and well-loved restaurants in Pattaya, with an ardent group of followers. The Dining Out Team returned to Mata Hari to see if the restaurant had moved with the times or was stuck in the nineties, and whether the rave reviews we had been given recently were justified.

The restaurant is in a single shop house in Second Road, on the block between Sois 8 and 7, a polyglot of bars, guesthouses and cafes. Mata Hari is a veritable oasis in the midst of madness.

The restaurant has a very small pavement area reserved for the die-hard smokers, but the rest is enclosed and fully air-conditioned. Being long and narrow, seating is limited and it is hard to see how the superb service staff can continue to function so well, sliding past each other and the tables, while carrying plates of food. Especially since the restaurant also has to house the ‘larger than life’ Louis himself, who visits every table with another anecdote, joke or tall story.

The wine list has a good range with whites from B. 750-2,200 and reds B. 850-5,900. There is another section called “Exceptional” with high class wines that will set you back between B. 19,000-29,900 (Domaine Romanee Conti La Tache 1993 if your palate and pockets are deep enough). House wine is available, with two choices of grape treaders, Italian or Australian, at B. 110 or B. 130. We chose the Australian house white and it was eminently drinkable.

The menu is very comprehensive, with soups B. 100-130 including a Turkish wedding soup. Salads B. 190-280 with a warm goat’s cheese and honey vinaigrette and walnuts. There are pastas (B. 260), starters generally around B. 220 with escargot, oyster, scallops and lobster.

Mains range in price generally between B. 280-350 and cover all meats, poultry and fish with the grilled US or Australian steaks top ticket items at B. 595. Desserts B. 150-220.

We began with the Dutch green pea soup for Madame and the scallops on creamed spinach and grilled cheese sauce for Miss Terry. As starters, they were sensational, and I can honestly say I have not tasted a better pea soup.

We next had a taster of Middle Eastern vegetarian appetizers, which came with a story of Louis’ hiding in Beirut for three months while they waged a war around him! The appetizers did whet the appetite, and contained no hand grenades or Scud missiles.

For mains we had the fillet steak Mata Hari with chicken liver pate, mushrooms and green asparagus (Madame) and the chicken fillet stuffed with fresh herb cheese and Parma ham for me. Madame’s meat was so tender it did not really need the sharp steak knife she had been given (“It’s not where it comes from, it’s where you buy it,” said Louis on his 17th trip past the table). Both items were served on hot plates, were large servings and were very good. There was no room for dessert, even though I had spied the Cr่me Brulee Amaretto!

We left Mata Hari, not only well fed, but well filled. The ebullient Louis Noll and his team have taken the venue, the menu and the food to new heights. This restaurant would have to have one of the more imaginative menus, with a wide variety of international items. The price is not over the top, particularly when looked at with respect to the quality, quantity and flavour. It is easy to see why this restaurant has such a loyal following. And if the food were not enough, it has Louis! A man who will make any night memorable. Very highly recommended.

Mata Hari Restaurant, Pattaya Second Road (between Sois 8 and 7), Tel/Fax 038 420 939, email [email protected]

As we are not the first to recognize the standard of this restaurant, we strongly suggest you book, to avoid disappointment - the venue is very small! Open from 4 p.m. till late Tuesday to Sunday. Street parking only, grab the first space you can after Soi 9!