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HEADLINES [click on headline to view story]:: Sea Worlds; Around Town

The Temple Monkeys of Kathmandu

Tender moments

Early morning sun pinks the valley rim, and haze softens the snowy contours of the distant Himalayas on a hot Spring day in Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal. On the northwest skirts of the city a visitor can find the ancient temple of Swayambhu. The tower which tops the massive dome of Kathmandu’s chief Buddhist temple serves as a landmark. And it is here one will find the hundreds of rhesus monkeys, divided into troops, which live in and around the temple and its grounds. Across the city, about four miles away from Swayambu, lies the holiest of Nepal’s Hindu temple, Pashupati. This temple celebrates Lord Siva, as Lord of the Beasts. Here, too, the monkey seems to share that rule.

The monkeys know the visitor has a pocketful of corn

Centuries ago, offerings of food, left for the gods, probably first lured the monkeys to the two principal temples of Kathmandu Valley. With this steady supply of rice, peanuts, and pumpkin, the animals stopped living purely off the land. It is assumed that the clever monkeys started coming from the nearby forests for the food as long as 2,000 years ago. Now these urbanised simians have taken up permanent residence.

Both Buddhist and Hindu religious motifs adorn Nepalese temples. Hanuman, the Monkey God is a popular deity, and his likeness is easily identifiable by his conspicuous tail and simian mouth. By association, all monkeys are protected in Nepal, and are fed in certain sanctuaries and places of worship.

Troops gathering at sunset

Men and women on their way to prayer (and people who just like to sit and watch the monkeyshines) come to Swayambhu and Pashupati to offer the animals food. Additionally, the monkeys eat insects, leaves from the trees and shrubs, and the grasses growing around the temples.

The rhesus monkey of the India can be aggressive. These little beasts are quick, smart, and full of mischief. Best to keep a firm grasp on your eyeglasses and your handbag. If you have ever held the view that rhesus monkeys are simply zoo animals or subjects for biomedical research, sit back and watch the troops interact for a while. The Nepalese see these animals as time-honoured residents of their capital city. Compared to some sections of Kathmandu, the monkeys do seem to have some of the best living quarters.

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Around Town: Wat Yarn-na-san-wa-ra-ram-wo-ra-ma-ha-vi-harn

By Lesley Warner

a.k.a. Wat Yarn Temple

This past Sunday I paid a visit to the temple complex at Na Jomtien, down Sukhumvit Road past Nong Nooch and turn left; sounds easy and it is. There are two roads in so if you miss the first one don’t worry, take the next. It’s a huge complex of temples and gardens that have been constructed over the years on a 2000 rai site.

There are many temples of various designs; I think the one most talked about is Viharnra Sien, the Chinese Temple with the magnificent museum. It costs 50 baht to go in but there are some wonderful artefacts to look at including some terracotta soldiers from China and many other old pieces.

The Thai exhibition is my favourite with the beautiful woodcarvings of elephants; you will find the exhibition rooms on the roof, where you will also find full size fighting figures, which are fun to have your photo taken with. I suggest sunglasses, as it can get very bright on the roof.

The bigger temples have a car park so you can drive to them. If you are feeling fit and want to get a bird’s eye view of Pattaya try the beautiful temple with the 200 vertical steps, if you dare. Don’t forget to knock one time on each of the 3 bells before you go up to let Buddha know that you are coming, although I’m quite sure he knew that I was on my way from my moaning and gasping for breath.

Once at the top you feel like you are on top of the world (or Pattaya at least) and you can look across to our Buddha on the hill at Jomtien, as the Buddha statues were constructed to be in line with each other. Not to be forgotten is the huge Buddha (approx 160m high and 61m wide) drawn in gold on the rock face. This was to honour the present King when he was 50 years old.

There is a Thai leaflet available with a map, or just take your chances and follow the roads. If you keep the mountain in sight you can’t go wrong.

There are a few basic Thai restaurants near the gold Buddha, and some refreshment stands in the main complex, or take a picnic and sit by one of the lakes.

It would certainly take all day to see everything at this interesting place but I do suggest you save enough time to sit by the small ornamental lake and feed the fish. It’s fascinating; there are so many I’m surprised they have room to swim.

When you are fully recovered, stroll along the innumerable winding paths through the trees and you will find more intricately designed temple retreats among the gardens and waterfalls.

I asked permission to write about the complex and I was told, “Yes, but remember this is not a place of fun and noise, but a quiet place for meditation and reflection”. Many people come from all over Thailand to study and practice meditation at this serene and tranquil place.

The complex is taken care of by Somjet Patyansangwan and Somjet Patsankalat.

I was told that Wat Uborsot was built in honour of King Rama V for his achievement in making Thailand a better place. The present King is very fond of this place.

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