I was keen to see the traditional side of Songkran and I had a computer to deliver to a small school in Buri Ram donated by www.pattaya.citi-info.com, so I thought it would be the perfect time to go. I had read about the ‘gentle throwing’ of water in the country areas (this would mean not getting too wet) and the tradition of the old blessing the young, which I could watch at the school’s fund raising day. I left Wednesday evening; big mistake, as the traffic was bumper to bumper all the way and the driving left a lot to be desired.

Me hunting

I decided to go to Phanom Rung in Buri Ram; Phanom Rung was built during the 12th century A.D. It’s set on top of Phanom Rung Hill in Tambon Ta Pek. It’s a religious sanctuary dedicated to the God Shiva, the supreme Hindu deity. It symbolizes Mount Kailasa, the heavenly abode of Shiva. I had heard that the view was amazing but unfortunately the weather that day was too hazy. Inside I literally had to climb my way around the temple, which I was ill equipped to do with my camera. A kind gentleman really wanted to help me; he put a firm had on my backside and pushed, but there was nothing he could do, I could see he was in a quandary. So in the end, scratched and bruised, I clawed my way up. It was worth it, as it is one of the most beautiful and important historic Khmer sites in Thailand. Unfortunately, during the war with Cambodia the temple statues were plundered. This is the temple that caused the controversy with America over the stone plaque that was removed during that time.

My trophy

On the way to the village where I was staying, we were constantly stopped by groups of people requesting money. Apparently, this is a normal custom, for they supposedly want the money to give to Buddha. I found it very disturbing and frightening to have my car surrounded while they covered it in powder and water demanding that I open the window and give them money.

When I arrived at my destination I went to my bed, which consisted of a mattress on the floor, no mosquito net, more bugs of all shapes and sizes than I’ve ever seen in my life, and all of them in my bed. I was assured by everyone that none of them could ‘cut’ me so what was I bothered about; I was so tired that I just fell on the mattress and slept.

Phanom Rung

The morning started at 6.30 a.m. and as soon as I set foot outside a glass of white whiskey was put in my hand. From then on for the rest of the weekend I had no control over anything. I spent the morning taking papa shopping and getting soaked and waiting for him when I wasn’t paying for what he bought! As I stood with the pump guns shooting water at me and the powder being plastered all over me I remembered the words ‘gentle throwing of water in the country areas’. I’d like to find the person that wrote them.

Songkran blessing

It was worth it, though. Once again I had experiences I could never have anywhere else. I went hunting for ‘Gin gai’ (a lizard), which they hunt with a catapult, and which can be eaten cooked or raw. No, I didn’t try them! I was so hot I wanted to swim so they took me to the reservoir where they keep the water that they pump into the fields to plant the rice. I looked at it dubiously and was told it’s very “long” (meaning deep) but nothing can ‘cut’ you so I went for it and it was great. There were many more of the country traditions that I was fortunate enough to share; I consider it a privilege that these kind people let me into their home.