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  COLUMNS

HEADLINES [click on headline to view story]:
 
Family Money: Confusing Ex-rates
 
The Computer Doctor

Successfully Yours: Cecile Court
 
Snap Shots: Fun and Excitement!
   
Modern Medicine: Losing Weight. It ain’t easy!

Heart to Heart with Hillary
 
Grapevine

Dining Out: An inexpensive meal at the Benjarong?
  
Shaman’s Rattle: Shiro Dhara - is this the answer?

Down The Iron Road: Siam’s “Firewood Railways”
 
Coins of the Realm: Commemorative coins for 17th May
 
Animal Crackers: A Badger, no less!

Family Money: Confusing Ex-rates

By Leslie Wright

For those of us who have settled here more or less permanently, there is a strong argument that our base currency is no longer the Pound Sterling or US Dollar (or whatever), but the Thai Baht. This is because our base currency is the one we think in and spend most money in.

On the other hand, there is always the tendency to argue that if a lump sum of capital has been invested offshore, perhaps from savings accumulated “back home” or from a pension gratuity, the currency it was received in - say, Sterling - is the currency to watch.

As we discussed last week, this scenario becomes even more complicated when your capital was accumulated in Sterling, is invested into Dollar-denominated unit trusts or mutual funds, which are themselves investing in regional equities (such as Asia, Europe, or even globally - as opposed to a single country), and you’re drawing down an income from that investment to cover local expenditure here in Thailand.

Which currency or currencies do you watch then? Or doesn’t it matter?

Well, yes it does. But perhaps not quite in the way most people think it does.

When down is good

Most people are well aware that if Sterling (or the US Dollar or Deutschmark) strengthens against the Thai Baht, their remittance of foreign currency will get more Baht when exchanged at their local bank.

Conversely, a purchase of foreign exchange - say to pay for a mortgage or school fees - will cost them more Baht if the transfer is going the other way.

When applied to investments, however, the fluctuations in relative exchange rates are not so clearly understood, as we started to discuss last week.

If your base currency is Sterling (i.e., you think in terms of Pounds Sterling rather than Baht), and Sterling depreciates against another currency, this would have a positive impact on the returns (in Sterling terms) from an overseas investment made in that other currency.

Conversely, if Sterling strengthens against another currency, this would have a negative impact on the returns (in Sterling terms) from an overseas investment made in that other currency.

Hedging the currency risk?

Many people believe that holding a diversified portfolio of funds denominated in various currencies provides an automatic currency-hedging mechanism which can be useful in removing exchange-rate fluctuation risk.

Similarly, some investors who believe the Euro will strengthen against, say, Sterling think that holding a fund denominated in Euros will enable them to make a gain on this movement.

In fact, they are deluding themselves, and demonstrate a common misunderstanding.

The fact that one currency gains against another does not increase the fundamental value of the component holdings within a particular fund, nor vice versa.

Fundamental value is the key

For instance, consider just one stock within an equity fund. If its price moves sideways (i.e., no gain or loss) and the denomination of the fund is different from the currency the stock is valued in, the stock’s value in terms of the denominated currency will have moved inversely to the currency movement.

As this concept is where the misunderstanding stems from, let me explain.

Stock A is priced in French Francs but the fund holding it is priced in Euros. If the Euro strengthens against the French Franc, but the stock price in FF remains unchanged, its value in Euros will have decreased by the same degree that the Euro has strengthened against the French Franc.

In other words, if the Euro strengthens against the French Franc by 5%, the value of the stock in French Francs remains the same, but its value in Euros will have dropped by 5%.

If Sterling has not moved upwards along with the Euro, but maintained its exchange rate with the French Franc, our investor may well be disappointed and perhaps confused to find that his fund’s unit value has dropped (being priced in now-more valuable Euros), and even more confused when he translates that value into Sterling to find that his Sterling value is exactly the same as it was before the Euro gained strength!

To make money from this particular scenario would in fact require Sterling to have depreciated against the French Franc; and what the Euro did in this scenario is entirely irrelevant to a Sterling investor.

And this same rationale applies to any other intermediary currency.

As another example, let’s say a Sterling-orientated investor buys Thai shares costing Bt.60 each while the exchange rate for ?1 = Bt.60.

The share price does not move, so the investor sells for Bt.60. Ignoring any brokerage commission that might apply on the transaction, he gets back the same as he started with.

But let’s say that in the meantime, Sterling has weakened (or the Thai Baht has strengthened) to ?1 = Bt.55 - i.e., our investor needs only Bt.55 to “buy back” the ?1.

Our investor has Bt.60, which divided by the exchange rate of ?1/Bt.55, gives ?1.09.

In Sterling terms he has made a profit of 9%, even though he is in exactly the same position as when he started in terms of Thai Baht.

When up is bad

The corollary of this scenario is if Sterling strengthened (or the Thai Baht weakened) to ?1 = Bt.65 - i.e., our investor now needs Bt.65 to “buy back” the ?1. He has Bt.60, which divided by the exchange rate of ?1/Bt.65, gives 92p. So although he made neither a profit nor a loss in Thai Baht, he has lost money in Sterling terms.

Hence if the view for Thailand equities is positive and outlook for the ?/Bt. is also positive, then the overall outlook for a Sterling-orientated investor into Thailand would be positive. In our example the positive currency outlook increases the returns to the investor from the equity investment.

However, if the view for Thai equities were positive, but the outlook for the ?/Bt. were negative - i.e., it is considered likely that Sterling would strengthen against the Baht, or the Baht would weaken against the Pound - then a Sterling-orientated investor into Thailand should exercise a degree of caution, since positive equity returns may be adversely affected by the currency movements.

This same scenario applies to any other two currencies you may care to choose.

But when it comes to considering three or more currencies - as in the scenario cited earlier of a Sterling-orientated investor investing into Dollar or Yen or Euro-denominated funds and drawing down an income in Thai Baht - things become rather more complex.

Just to muddy the water a little more, you may elect to invest into a diversified portfolio comprising several such funds. You may then be dealing with perhaps three or more currencies - Dollars, Sterling, Euros, Deutschmarks, Swiss Francs and perhaps even Yen.

But the exercise of establishing the real worth of such a diversified portfolio in terms of your base currency is only slightly more laborious than keeping tabs on the single-country exercise cited earlier.

You simply convert the value of each fund into your base currency (or any other single currency you may be interested in) at the prevailing relative exchange rate, to have an overall picture of your portfolio’s real value in your ‘favourite’ currency.

You can then evaluate your portfolio in terms of that currency, and see whether you have made a real profit or not - both as regards the price you originally paid in your then-base currency, and what it is worth now - either in that same currency or any other you may now be concerned with - such as Thai Baht.

So when planning to buy or sell units in a fund which is priced in a currency other than your base currency, with the intention of remitting the proceeds of that investment at some later stage to Thailand, you won’t necessarily be taking a bath in Baht.

Nor will you “make a killing” just because the denominated currency of any particular fund in your portfolio appreciates against your base currency.

Leslie Wright is Managing Director of Westminster Portfolio Services (Thailand) Ltd., a firm of independent financial advisors providing advice to expatriate residents of the Eastern Seaboard on personal financial planning and international investments. If you have any comments or queries on this article, or about other topics concerning investment matters, contact Leslie directly by fax on (038) 232522 or e-mail [email protected]. Further details and back articles can be accessed on his firm’s website on www.westminsterthailand.com.

Editor’s note: Leslie sometimes receives e-mails to which he is unable to respond due to the sender’s automatic return address being incorrect. If you have sent him an e-mail to which you have not received a reply, this may be why. To ensure his prompt response to your enquiry, please include your complete return e-mail address, or a contact phone/fax number.

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The Computer Doctor

by Richard Bunch

At the risk of being accused of being an alarmist, or repeating myself, with the recent and widespread outbreak of the VBS/Loveletter virus, a VB script virus, it is timely to remind readers of the real threat that viruses and Trojans present to the health of our computers and the well-being of our businesses.

We’ve all heard about computer viruses and probably think that they are something that happens to other people but do we really know what they are and what if we are that other person? Essentially a virus is program, just like any other program that you have on your PC except that it is malicious or destructive when executed. It hunts for other programs, those that we use everyday like Word and Excel and “infects” them by embedding a copy of itself within them, they then become Trojan Horses. When these programs are executed, the embedded virus is executed concurrently thereby propagating the “infection”. This whole process can be done invisibly to the user, so for the unwary, the dangers of transmitting it to others is very real.

On the plus side, viruses cannot infect other computers without assistance, normally from exchanging programs or files with friends or colleagues or downloading programs from less reputable Internet sites. However, this latest outbreak and others before it, like Melissa, come by e-mail, and less commonly, thus far, through infected files transmitted via programs like ICQ and NetMeeting. The payload of the different viruses varies; for example, some create ‘joke’ messages, some capture and transmit confidential information from your hard disk whilst others destroy data, and as if that wasn’t bad enough it is possible for the PC’s hardware to be irreparably damaged.

In the case of VBS/Loveletter, the major anti-virus software manufacturers responded promptly by posting updates for it and subsequently the many derivatives of it that proliferated. It really is essential to install an anti-virus program on all PC’s and ensure that it is regularly updated so that it keeps apace with the ever-growing list of viruses, this exercise should be done at least monthly. Another method is to subscribe to something like McAfee Clinic from McAfee, www.mcafee.com, by using your Internet connection, it checks each day for updates and if necessary prompts you to install the update. Since this is an automated process, it means that it is not necessary to remember to obtain the updates thereby eliminating the human factor. In addition to having the anti-virus software installed, it should be second nature to adopt good housekeeping practices, such as if you receive an e-mail from an unknown source or even someone you are associated with and it has an attachment that seems inappropriate be wary! After all would you expect your bank manager to send you an e-mail with a Loveletter attached? If possible, always have the macro warning enabled in programs like Word and Excel.

Remember in this latest attack, even those companies and organisations we would assume to be watertight have become infected so don’t be complacent about opening files received from sources which you would hitherto have considered undoubted.

Whilst anti-virus programs will afford you protection as long as they are kept up-to-date, remember there is always the first case of infection and a small delay before the virus databases themselves become updated. So I recommend that if your PC and its data are essential to you or your business you take additional precautions. These should take the form of backing up data and/or programs that are deemed necessary to removable media, such as CDR’s, CDRW’s, Zip disks, etc, ideally these should be stored in a remote location. This contingency planning is also good in the event of hardware failure, fire, theft etc. It is a relatively small price to pay and in the event of disaster striking will undoubtedly be one of the wisest investments you will have made.

Send your questions or comments to the Pattaya Mail at 370/7-8 Pattaya Second Road, Pattaya City, 20260 or Fax to 038 427 596 or E-mail to [email protected]. The views and comments expressed within this column are not necessarily those of the writer or Pattaya Mail Publishing.

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Successfully Yours: Cecile Court

by Mirin MacCarthy

Imagine for a minute, a cross between Mia Farrow and Audrey Hepburn playing the part of Joan of Arc. A wispy elfin-like figure portraying the proud and independent thinker of La Belle France. You are now somewhere towards understanding Cecile Court, a nurse volunteer at the Bangkok Pattaya Hospital.

Cecile is French, 24 years old and positively radiating good health, decidedly an asset in someone who has made the caring profession her life’s work. The eldest of four children, born in Lyons to an English teacher father and a mother who was a nurse, this young girl had found out by the time she was 17 that France was too small for her. It is interesting to note that Cecile had no “role model” to provoke this “wanderlust” with no members of her family travelling much outside France. She enrolled in nursing, not because of any influence from her mother, but because even at that tender age there was an inner force driving her. “I chose nursing because I knew with this job I can go anywhere.”

And the first “anywhere” she went to was to New Delhi to work as a volunteer in the Catholic Mother Theresa’s orphanage for eight weeks. This was when she was still very much a junior student nurse. As you may have guessed, Cecile is herself a Catholic (as many are in France) and states that she does have a strong faith, said very simply without embarrassment.

Returning to Lyons, she knuckled down to three and a half years of study, emerging from her training institution as a graduate nurse. However, it was the call of different cultures, peoples and different ways of life that was now foremost. Towards this end, she volunteered her services to the French Catholic NGO, FIDESCO. This organisation sends their volunteers all over the world, and initially it appeared as if Cecile was bound for South America, but at the last moment, they decided she would better serve the organisation by assisting in Bangkok. She was placed in Din Daeng to help the Sisters of the Good Shepherd who run a home for unmarried mothers there.

This was not as easy as her first small foray in India. “In the beginning, it was very difficult. I was living with Thai people who only spoke Thai. I had no real idea of the culture, and much of it I did not understand.”

But Cecile stuck to her placement, learning Thai and much of the culture as she worked with the unfortunate girls in the home. She settled in, met a young Frenchman, with whom she had a romantic attachment and life for this young French woman was becoming satisfying. However, at the end of her two year placement she returned to France.

Back in Lyons, she had time to take stock of her life and career. She found she missed Thailand and everything about it, but also realised she could not spend all of her life as a volunteer with a welfare agency. She felt a need to work in a more normal nursing structure. She also missed her boyfriend!

Cecile returned to Thailand, but it was not so easy to find the type of position that would be satisfying for her. Bangkok did not have an opening for this young lady, but Pattaya did, with the opportunity to work as a nurse volunteer in the Out-Patients Department of the Bangkok Pattaya Hospital. Boyfriend might have been in Bangkok, but Cecile knew she needed to work in her chosen vocation.

Speaking fluent English, French (naturally) and now Thai, she can assist many expats through the anxious moments in a busy Out-Patients Department. “They are so happy when they see the white face,” she laughed.

While the expats are happy they have found Cecile, this young French nurse is also happy that her experiences in Thailand are also helping her to find herself. “I need to know myself. Being here and discovering how people work helps me to understand myself more, too.”

She has really immersed herself in the culture here, living in a Soi off Sukhumvit Road and walking through the market every morning to then catch a baht bus to the hospital. She cautions that, “Not everything is alright and it is difficult to live in another country - but it is very good experience.”

When she is not nursing she sometimes visits the beaches down here, but most weekends are spent in Bangkok trips to movies and perhaps playing tennis with her boyfriend.

When I asked her where she would be in five years, when she will be 29 years old, she was unsure, but certain of two facts, “I will continue to be a nurse, but it won’t be back in France.” She is not turning her back on her heritage; however, the ten year plan is different. She wants to return to her homeland when she is around 35 years old and open a hostel for disadvantaged women. “I am too young now, and there are many things I have to see first.”

Flashing yet another one of her most engaging smiles, she returned to the Out-Patients Department to supply that happy white face for those who look for it. Cecile Court is truly a delightful and remarkable young woman. St. Joan made her mark in history - it would not surprise me to see Cecile also make hers - but this time, no burning at the stake, thank you!

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Snap Shots: Fun and Excitement!

by Harry Flashman

A friend of mine came in the other day to show me his “new baby”. On his back was a kid’s seat with his son strapped in it, but it was not son and heir that was the cause for his excitement, it was the new Nikon he had bought in Singapore!

Not only had he purchased an FM2, but 24 mm, 50 mm and 105 mm lenses to go with it. I felt honoured that he had come to share this feeling with me, as he had stopped in while on a photographic foray to show me.

What this reminded me, was that all photography should be “fun”. There should be enjoyment in the taking as well as in the “looking” at photographs. For Harry as a photojournalist, this fact sometimes tends to escape one when pictures must be produced to a deadline, and there is not the liberty of time to just set up and play with the taking of a shot.

For my friend, he was enjoying the fun of just strolling with his son, looking for picture opportunities, trying out his different lenses and seeing how they alter the final composition of the shot. How many times have you done just that? Gone out with the idea of taking some photographs for the fun of doing it. No subject matter in mind, just see what bobs up. If you have not done this, then you should. Photography is fun, and is even something that families can do together. You might just be amazed at what junior can come up with using the cheapest point and shooter. Try it!

Lenses

It is worthwhile looking at the choices of lenses that are available for your respective camera. My friend’s choices were good; I liked especially the 24 mm wide angle rather than the more usual 28 mm lens. The dynamic effects produced by wide angle lenses become even more exaggerated with a 24 mm lens, while coming back to 15-18 mm lenses though super wide (almost “fish eye”) produces just too much distortion to make them generally usable.

The 50 mm lens is the one that comes with all 35 mm cameras and is known as the “standard” lens, and as such often gets ignored as not being “arty” enough. However, the 50 mm lens is one which will allow you to photograph in low light, as most have a very wide aperture, much more than any longer lenses. It is also a good lens to take shots of couples or children.

His choice of a 105 mm lens is an interesting one. These are known as “short” telephoto lenses, and are excellent to bring that scene just a little closer, if you cannot walk in closer yourself. It is also a reasonable lens to take portraits with, so does have many good characteristics. Personally, I favour the 135 mm lens, which is the perfect portrait length, but there is not so much of a difference between this and the 105 mm.

There will be some of you who might say, “Why not get one zoom to cover the lot?” but let me assure you that there is not a single zoom that can cover 24-105 and still be as sharp as the individual “prime” lenses. Any zoom that exceeds the 3:1 ratio always has a fall-off in sharpness and generally is unable to give really wide apertures. For my friend’s 24 mm, that would produce a 24-72, a very strange lens if they ever made one. The common 28-85 has neither the wide angle nor the portrait ability, so there is no one lens to cover his range.

By the way, “doublers” or extenders that convert your 50 mm standard lens to a 100 mm short telephoto also produce lenses with less than standard sharpness and a reduction of the maximum aperture by a couple of stops as well.

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Modern Medicine: Losing Weight. It ain't easy!

by Dr Iain Corness

Being overweight is one of the greatest problems in the western world. Despite all the public health awareness programmes, the population has got fatter in the last ten years, not slimmer. That previously great sporting country, Australia, now has more than half the population overweight. Why?

Undoubtedly “lifestyle” plays a very large part in it all. We work longer hours, but less physically. Our leisure time is spent more in the sporting spectator mode than being a participant. With time constraints upon us, it is “easier” to use “fast foods” than prepare “healthy” meals. The dice is not loaded in our favour.

Of course the cause of obesity is not just from one factor - there are many, including genetic disposition and environmental components as well as emotional and physical issues. However, it will always come down to what passes between your teeth, and nobody is prising your jaws open.

One of the problems when dealing with this issue is in the terminology itself. Patients talk about being a couple of kilo’s overweight, while we medico’s use a scale called the BMI (Body Mass Index). You calculate your BMI by dividing your weight in kilograms by the square of your height in metres. (For example, if you weigh 78 kg and stand 1.8 metres tall, your BMI is 78 divided by 3 - which is 1.8 multiplied by 1.8 and the final result is 26.)

Now we say that if your BMI is less than 18 then you are underweight, 18-25 is “normal”, 25-30 is overweight, 30-40 is obese and more than 40 extremely obese.

We also look at your waist measurement, because this can give a pointer to the conditions from which you are “at risk”. The magic numbers here are more than 102 cms for men and more than 88 cms for women.

What illnesses are overweight people prone to? Here’s the list, so tick yours off as you read - Hypertension, impaired blood sugar control, Type II Diabetes, poor blood fat control, sleep apnoea (that’s when you stop breathing for some time while asleep), gynaecological abnormalities, osteoarthritis, gall stones, stress incontinence and coronary artery disease. Hardly worth living with all that lot!

So what can you do when you are overweight? Well, the first thing is not to try to take it all off in one large lump. Aim for around a 10% reduction in your body weight over 12 months. Remember that it took you quite some time to stack the weight on, so it is “natural” for it to take around the same length of time to get it off. Around 0.5 to 1 kg reduction per month is attainable and sustainable - and that is what is important. It is no good taking weight off and then putting it back on within the next few months. No good neither physically or emotionally.

How do you get the reduction? Sorry, nothing magic I’m afraid. It remains a case of healthy eating and increased activity. Lifestyle changes that can extend your lifetime. When you look at it that way, it might be worthwhile looking into.

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Dear Hilary,

Whenever I go out Thais ask me the most personal questions. “How much money you make? You married yet? Why not? You got girlfriend? You want me to be your friend.” Being British I find this very intrusive and impolite. Do you agree, and how can I deflect these interrogations?

James

Dear James, old boy,

Unbend a bit and keep your sense of humour. This quaint questioning is just the good-natured curiosity of the Thais. It is also a device used to sort out suitable suitors from the already taken. Think heavily on what your replies will be. Take my tip and indicate modest means to very modest means without being specific about income. As for the “Married or not?” answer as to your availability. You might try, “Married wife in England,” “Married before, wife take all my money”, or “I don’t want to marry, I like boys”, it is really up to you. Remember it is just a game. Have fun playing it!

Dear Hillary,

I’m a businessman who frequents the bars after hours for drinks and conversation with other expats, and bargirls since I can write and speak fluent Thai. Over the years, I got to know the mamasans, papasans, and many other bargirls and their tales with Farangs, this includes romance and scams that those bargirls play on their customers. And over the years I have met some of their Thai boyfriends and husbands, as well as their Farang customers, boyfriends, and husbands. Currently and in the past, I kept those bargirls secrets to myself, but now it’s starting to get to me. Many of these bargirls will lie and cheat to steal as much money from their Farang partners, especially when the Farangs have to return to their home country. Many of those unsuspecting Farangs provide financial support of 7000 baht to 30,000 baht per month to provide for her family as well, so they don’t have to resort to prostitution while he is away. However, many of those bargirls return to their old jobs as “soapphanee” or with their Thai or Farang previous partners. My problem is that I have gotten to know and drank with many of their Farang guys who asked me to “keep an eye out” for their Thai ladies while they’re away. In the past and present, I always said, “I don’t know,” when I saw them again in the bars or when they E-mailed me. But now I feel guilty and uneasy about the whole thing. I actually feel pity for those men. Anyway, my dilemma is that I don’t know what to do. Should I tell those unsuspecting Farangs the truth and lose those bargirls trust and confidence or continue the current situation as is, or just avoid the bars completely?

Dilemma-ed

Dear Dil-emma,

This is only a problem for you if you allow it. Really, you have already betrayed the bargirls’ trust. Do not be the carrier of bad tidings. Keep in mind that no one EVER thanks you for shattering their illusions or romance. My advice is to continue as you are doing, and be noncommittal. Step back and ignore some, do not take on the role of judge and jury. I believe the Christian bible has a message, “Judge not, lest ye be judged.” Remember everyone including Thai bargirls has to make their own lives and their own mistakes and their own karma. Put the blinkers back on, or if you can’t then change bars frequently or avoid them, but I don’t believe you can.

Dear Hillary,

My maid refuses to use the microwave or the electric oven, although I have bought her instruction books for both in Thai. She always says - “Electric-city no good, fire (meaning gas) good.” She cooks reasonable Thai and farang food for our family in the wok on the gas top. My concern is whenever we entertain guests at home she still refuses to use the appliances, even the blender. She just asks her “sisters” in to help with the cooking. They chatter away for hours and everything is done agonizingly slowly. This seems bizarre and time wasting to me. How can I convert her over to modern ways?

Louise

Dear Louise,

You have no hope. Just be grateful that you have someone to do the cooking for you. Traditionally, entertaining and work is a community event in Thai societies. The women all cook together on dow tarns- wood fire barbecues out the back. Everyone helps, even the older children. The majority of Thai maids, except those who are hotel trained, are distrustful of electricity and electrical appliances. I would hazard a guess your maid would also prefer to use a broom rather than a vacuum. You will not be able to change this. Lighten up - you’ve got a lifetime to enjoy the different ways things are done here.

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GRAPEVINE

Gay pointer
Pattaya holiday maker Mrs Eleanor Simples from Uttoxeter was devastated after reading in a newspaper that she could be a lesbian as her ring finger is longer than her index finger. She is 72 with three children, five grandchildren and nine great grandchildren. Mrs Simples says she paid a fortune teller on Jomtien Beach 2,000 baht to find out the truth. However, he said he didn’t know as he had never read The Daily Sport. She went on to tell him she had buried four husbands and he suggested she had better get to the police station without further delay.

Prison breakthrough
Inmates at Phnom Penh’s notoriously harsh city jail were delighted to be told that their wives could now visit them once a month in the interests of conjugal rights. However, the collective whoopee was abruptly halted when the small print was made known. “Couples will meet in groups of twelve for sixty minutes at 11.00 hours and restrict their conversation to religious themes and singing songs.” It was not immediately clear from the smuggled out press release whether lunch would be served afterwards.

Buffet choice
If you fancy Italian food at a reasonable rate, there’s an excellent pasta station operating at Delaney’s on Second Road every Tuesday. You choose your style of pasta, vegetables and sauces and the cook presents you with a plentiful plate in a couple of minutes. You can go back for as many helpings as you can manage for 150 baht net. Drinks, sweets and extras can be ordered from the a la carte menu. Given that the similarities between Pattaya and the Emerald Isle are not all that obvious to GEOC (Grapevine Eating Out Collective), Delaney’s Irish atmosphere is a fair crack of the whip. Even down to the Irish telephone.

The Pattaya scene
The South Pattaya and Third Road junction traffic lights were again out of action for most of April. Queues were generally fewer than when the lights are actually working. Let’s hope City Hall isn’t sending us a signal... There are a dozen or so railway crossings within shouting distance of Pattaya. When scheduled trains are coming, the barriers close off road traffic as alarms ring. However, when the engineers’ rail mini-platform comes thundering down the line, Keystone Cops style, there are no safety precautions at all. Something wrong there... We hear that the nitery in gay orientated Pattayaland Soi One to do the best business in the slack season does not have persistent barkers instructing you to get inside. Might be a commercial lesson in that.

Anything for a bet
Self styled meditator and skinhead boozer Andy (Grunter) Hopcroft, 23 and reputedly from Lytham St Annes, got his comeuppance when he agreed to run fully naked up and down Soi Yamoto and Soi Post Office for at least ten minutes. He stood to gain 2000 baht. His mates cheered him off at the unearthly hour of 4 a.m. in the pouring rain from a bar that has asked to remain anonymous in the interests of good taste. But they grew anxious when he had not returned by lunchtime. On his release from the police station in a rented blanket, Grunter said he had made it to the top of the street whereupon a friendly motorist had opened his door and offered to give him a lift. It was an unmarked police car. There is currently a lively intellectual dispute in the bar whether Grunter actually fulfilled the terms of his bet.

Readers’ queries
Long stay expat TY wants to know whether he can claim a married man’s allowance from his home country tax authorities now that he is legally married to a Thai lady. Almost certainly yes, but you must contact your tax man back home and ask for the procedure. Some European countries insist that you record the marriage through your embassy; others may be satisfied with an authorized translation of the Thai marriage documentation... Pattaya based reader HG says he is long term sick and asks whether it is legal to give a third party his passport to take abroad to get a new Thai visa. No, it isn’t legal. Your best procedure is to get a government hospital to verify on paper you not able to leave the country. A friend can then go to the immigration bureau, if you can’t go yourself, and request an extension on your behalf.

Hot off the press
From The Manchester Evening News:

An elderly man at a care center passed round a box of mints. Eleven people were taken to hospital after eating mothballs.

A man who eight months ago decided to spend his life in a tree has died. He fell out of it.

A sex line caller’s complaint to the trading standards’ authority has been dismissed. He had argued that his request to hear “Hear Me Moan” was misleading as it was a only a tape of a woman nagging her husband for refusing to do the washing up.

Postscript
Overheard in The Bunker. First man, “As we are paired tomorrow, have you a golf handicap?” Second man, “Sort of. I can’t hit the ball very far.”

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Dining Out: An inexpensive meal at the Benjarong?

by Miss Terry Diner

Mention the Benjarong Restaurant at the Royal Wing of the Royal Cliff Beach Resort and people automatically talk in hushed and reverential tones. Always noted for good food and excellent service, there appears to be a concomitant thought that this also equates with “expensive”. After a visit to the Benjarong last week, the Dining Out Team can vouch for the fact that this is not necessarily so!

Between now and the 21st of May, Benjarong Restaurant is having a Mediterranean Food and Wine Fiesta. This had begun on the 22nd of April, and when Zahid from the Royal Cliff invited the Team over, we naturally jumped at the chance to experience this cuisine.

The menu (and Benjarong kitchen) is under Swiss chef Marc Arnold, who admitted that Mediterranean food is his favourite to cook. “My home is only four hours from the Mediterranean and I love to use olive oil in my dishes.”

The Benjarong Restaurant is beautifully fitted out, with natural wood panelling, carpeted floors and illuminated cabinets with Benjarong pieces on display. The ambience is quiet, the service personnel glide in and out of view leaving bread, different choices of butter, glasses of water and attending to every little whim with graciousness and a beaming smile. It is very easy to wish to be accustomed to this style of living.

After waxing eloquent, let’s get down to the menu. With fine food, one should also have fine wine. (This was not a night for Singha Gold!) Unfortunately, in Thailand, wine tends to be expensive and here was pleasant surprise number 1 - during the Mediterranean Fiesta, the wines are being offered at “knock down” prices. The most expensive was only 850 baht, with the cheap end a choice of three different wines at 450 baht a bottle. The selected wines are from Italy, Spain, Portugal and France. We chose a Caves Alianca Casal Mendes Rose, a good all-rounder with most dishes, and at 650 baht, a “steal”.

We chose from the “old” Mediterranean menu, but after twisting Marc Arnold’s arm, I was able to get the “new” menu that will be in force from now till the end of the promotion. It begins with five appetizers that range in price from B 150 for the Zucchini-Carpaccio in lime, extra virgin olive oil and rosemary, through a warm duck breast on a cucumber salad with Pernod and mint (B 220), ending up with pan-fried goose liver on a warm grape salad and Balsamico glaze at B 490.

The mains, and there is a choice of six, range between B 210 and B 520 including home made Tagliatelli with Roquette, goat cheese, cashew nuts and sun dried tomatoes, spicy seafood with cous-cous “Marocain” with the most expensive being the beef - sirloin steak with marrow and Merlot-shallots on olives. Certainly reads well!

On our evening, Madame chose a tomato and mozzarella cheese on freshly pounded black olive paste while I went for the bouillabaisse soup. The tomato dish had a piquant sharpness that had you coming back for more (and was Madame’s pick for dish of the evening), while my soup was really brilliant - full of seafood, with crab claws, prawns and scallops.

For mains, we had a pan-fried sea bass and an oven roasted leg of lamb with baked potato and Tzatziki. What’s a Tzatziki? I must admit I didn’t know either, but it is a Greek dressing made with yoghurt and sour cream with garlic, cucumber and olives, and is very nice!

For desserts, Madame managed to put away a parfait of frozen cappuccino which came complete with a spoonful of chocolate topping, while I just finished the last of the rose wine!

The Benjarong experience is always good - and this Mediterranean promotion is surprisingly inexpensive. Try it! But get there before the 21st of this month!

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Shaman’s Rattle: Shiro Dhara - is this the answer?

by Mirin MacCartry

Australian naturopath friends practicing massage and natural health revealed the tantalizing rejuvenating technique “Shiro Dhara” they had learned in a seminar from an Indian Ayurvedic guru. Somewhere out of the dregs of fleeting memory I was then reminded of this ancient system of natural healing therapy, Ayurvedic medicine, a system that had somehow escaped my attention over the years.

I discovered Ayurveda or, “The science of longevity” was developed by ancient Indian seers thousands of years ago, and promotes natural beauty, positive health and long life. Apparently India’s traditional Ayurvedic medicine dates back 4,500 years to the ancient Hindu text, the Rig-Veda, which lists 67 medicinal herbs, some of which are still used today. Over the centuries, Ayurveda has been adapted and refined and is now a living, growing body of knowledge based on universal principles, as useful today as it was eons ago.

Ayurveda supports surgical and powerful medications yet has intact systems of daily health care, meditation, herbology, diet, baths and rejuvenation techniques such as Shiro Dhara and exercise of Hatha Yoga, T’ai Chi, Japanese Sotai and Taoist exercises.

Basically, Ayurveda teaches that health and inner and outer beauty is achieved by the balance of three subtle energies, Kapha, Vatta and Pitta. Ayurveda brings these forces into harmony so that they achieve physical, emotional and spiritual growth.

Learning all this inspired me to rush out and buy a book on Ayurvedic treatments, and I share some of its secrets here. “Ayurvedic Beauty Care” by Melanie Sachs 1SBN, 0-914955-11-X, Lotus Press, is a find akin to finding cool spring water in the desert, it demystifies the ancient Ayurvedic philosophy and gives clear insights into its health promotion and how to enhance inner and outer beauty with luxurious beauty techniques, diet, exercise, herbs, massage oils and aromas.

This is an amazing book because it lets you into secrets that you never believed you could uncover, but does not insist you adopt a philosophy or rigorous regime. Melanie Sachs wrote the book as a self-care manual for everyone, with great diagrams for self-massage and other wonderful recipes, as well as to inspire beauty therapists.

The book fully explained Shiro Dhara and other ‘must have’ experiences. I learned that Shiro Dhara is the running of a warm fine stream of sesame oil over the third eye area of the forehead for half an hour to an hour. Stimulation of the third eye (the exact midpoint of the forehead, between the eyes, about an inch above the bridge of the nose) causes the brain to release serotonin, producing a marked sensation of pleasure and relaxation. It also is said to help the clear the chakras and channels that calm and clarify the mind.

Not only is it very soothing to the face and forehead, but it also clears the mind of all extraneous internal chatter. Afterwards you are said to feel refreshed, renewed and able to make decisions easily and process information more easily. Traditionally, Shiro Dhara was used for cases of stress and pain in the face, neck, head and shoulders. It releases trapped energy and in many people lends a strong flow of psychic impressions and lucid dreaming. Sounds wonderful to me.

It did occur to me that as soon as I could, I would persuade a willing friend to give me a Shiro Dhara experience but in the true spirit of change, to adapt the procedure to have my friend trickle a warm stream of salty water scented with sage or geranium or turmeric essential oil over my forehead, instead of sesame oil. The reason for my change is that salt water is traditionally regarded as purifying and definitely less messy than oil to wash out of the hair!

The equipment recommended is a massage table, rolled towel for under the neck, a bowl to catch the oil or saline water, a drip device (Sachs suggests a chemistry equipment supply of funnel and stand), though I envision a drip bottle of saline from pharmacy being an excellent substitute, and 2 pints (1.2 litres) of warm sesame oil or (saline). The victim just lies back and enjoys and some even have an out body experience while warm oil or salt water is dripped over the forehead for a half an hour.

What a way to go, what a brilliant way to rejuvenate. I would recommend this, combined with gentle Swedish or Ayurvedic massage or Reiki hands on energy balancing as a wonderful way to end a stressful busy week.

Next week I will give you some more indulgent beauty techniques to leave you glowing inside and out.

The Pattaya City Council is holding animal inoculation days on Thursday and Friday mornings May 18 and 19th from 8.30 to 12.30, at five different beach locations in North Pattaya, South Pattaya and North and South Jomtien. Pattaya Animal Welfare Society members (PAWS) have been invited to assist and will be donating 2,000 baht of rabies vaccine. Come along and meet PAWS members or bring along a community dog or cat that may need vaccinating.

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Down The Iron Road: Siam’s “Firewood Railways”

by John D. Blyth

Following the end of World War 1, the Royal State Railway of Siam faced two major tasks. One was the conversion of the early 1435mm gauge lined to the metre gauge; the second being extension of existing lines-from Lampang to Chiang Mai, Khorat to Ubon Ratchathani and to the North East - Udon Thani and eventually Nong Khai. The line from Bangkok Noi to the Malay border had been completed by the British in 1918 but was woefully short of locomotives and rolling stock. All this would call for more locomotives, more powerful to cope with the heavier trains that would be needed. This in turn would result in the consumption of more fuel - at that time always wood, of which there seemed plenty, but in some areas it may not have been very close to the railway.

So, in 1921, two small lines with a track gauge of 600mm were opened, based on Hwa Wai (Northern line), and Sung Noen (North Eastern line), and 204 km and 234 km respectively from Bangkok. A useful map is included in R. Ramaer’s ‘The Railways of Thailand’ (available in Pattaya at DK books in Soi Post Office), but the statement that the Sung Noen line was opened as early as 1913 is incorrect. The Hwa Wai line was closed in the 1950s, maybe as early as 1952, but Sung Noen carried on for some more years. Following the closure of the Hwa Wai line, a metre gauge line intended to reach Tha Tako was commenced, but this 54km line did not the see the light further than the first 19km, due to lack of funds. It was not used and was lifted about 16 years ago.

No. 32 outside Hat Yai station in January 1972

Seven small 0-6-0 locomotives were supplied to work these lines; they were ordered through an agent, Robert Hudson of Leeds, England; this resulted in their true identity remaining unknown to their owners. Some confusion in the railway records mixed them up with the very earliest locomotives built for the Bangkok-Ayuthaya section of the State Railway system, and although built in 1920 and delivered in 1921, they are on record as centenarians of 1895 vintage! In fact, they came from the firm of Hudswell Clarke & Co., also of Leeds, and on delivery carried numbers 1 to 7. Soon after delivery the first two, 1 and 2 became 8 and nine! - more confusion, and for what reason? At this stage no one knows, and many compilers of lists of the State Railways’ locomotives have pencilled in imagined builders and even wheel arrangements. It is possible that two more locomotives of a different type were in mind, but there is no evidence that this progressed beyond informal enquiry. Had there been an order, even provision and later cancelled, there would have been an allocation of serial numbers, later endorsed ‘Not Built’. No such entry has been found in any builder’s list. Whatever the facts, there is no evidence as yet to convince me that another No. 1 and No. 2 were ever supplied. The little Hudswell Clarke locomotives were built to one of their firm’s standard designs, and were quite satisfactory, but were rather rough riders; this was righted by fitting a pair of carrying wheels under the driver’s cab. It is not known for certain if all were so modified, but this was probably the case.

No. 7, as restored to working order, with tender, in steam at Makkasan Works, Bangkok, 17 March 1999

All locomotives, and railway equipment in general, suffered badly during the Japanese occupation of the country, and these would have been no exception; it is known that No. 7, a ‘Hwa Wai’ engine, had been transferred to Sung Noen by 1952, possibly due to a shortage of working engines at the latter place. But in 1949 the firm of Kyosan Kogyo of Japan had supplied three small 4-wheeled locomotives to assist the older locomotives, and all these, which bore numbers 31 to 33 (for no very obvious reason!) were allocated to Sung Noen and remained there all their working lives.

I find no date for the closure of the Sung Noen line; it could have been in the early 1960s, but at least some locomotives survived. Of the Hudswell Clarke engines of 1920, two have survived in preservation, Nos 7 and 9; a claim that No. 6 has also been kept is, at least, suspect; I think it was sold to a private person for scrap.

No. 7 was kept at the State Railway’s Makkasan works for many years, but in 1997, the at request H. M. Queen Sirikit, it was restored to working order, converted to oil firing, provided with a tender to contain the oil pump, and will eventually be used to haul tourist trains on a railway in the grounds of Her Majesty’s Handicraft Training Centre at Bang Sai, near Ayuthaya, hauling trains of ‘period’ wooden coaches. The railway has not yet been constructed, no doubt due to the continuing recession in the country. For the present, the engine remains at Makkasan.

No. 9 has also been kept, and this has for many years been part of a three-engine display on the station approach at Chumpon station, on the Southern line.

All three of the Japanese locomotives have also survived. No. 31, after years of standing in the open at Chiang Mai Station, has been returned to Makkasan works, where I saw it a year ago being restored to working order as a ‘stand-by’ for No. 7 at Bang Sai. No. 32 stood for years on waste ground at Hat Yai, but when the station was partly rebuilt following a bomb outrage, it was mounted on a plinth near the station entrance. No. 33 was kept for a long time in Makkasan works, but is now on loan to the ‘Thai Rail Fan Club’, whose President is a well-known Bangkokian, Professor Sanpasiri Viryasiri. He has a small transport museum in the northwest corner of Chatuchak Park in Bangkok, with other items of railway interest. Previously open Sunday mornings only, the museum is now open on weekdays, and the Sunday opening is uncertain. The building was to have housed the exhibits of the intended National Railway Museum, but this floundered due to disinterest by a subsequent Transport Minister. How these politicians do make our lives that little bit poorer!

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Coins of the Realm: Commemorative coins for 17th May

by Jan Olav Amalid,
President House of the Golden Coin
http://www.thaicoins.com

In a few days Norway and Norwegians all over the World will celebrate the 17th of May. The reason for this is that on the 17th of May in 1814 the Norwegian Constitution was ratified. Delegations from all over Norway met at a building in Eidsvoll, stayed there for several months, and in between all the celebrations, the Norwegian Constitution was written and ratified.

More than 100 medals have been issued to commemorate this important occasion for Norway. This year one special medal is even being struck for the Norwegian Community in Thailand. A presentation can be found in this issue of Pattaya Mail.

2 kroner 1914. Sold for face value in 1914, 2 kroner, at that time about 1 baht, value today about 1,000 baht.

Three coins have been struck to commemorate the Norwegian Constitution. The first were struck in 1914; 2 kroner coins struck in 225,600 pieces (PC). On the obverse was the coat of arms with Norwegian wood, and the reverse shows “Mother Norway” looking out on the sea. My first contact with this coin was when I was about 12 years old. My grandmother had some coins that were given to her by her father. She gave me one of these 2 kroners. A coin-dealer in 1966 appraised my first coin to be worth 100 baht. He also recommended I go to the bank and get the commemorative 10 kroner coin from 1964 issued for the 150th anniversary of the Constitution. The reason for the coin not being sold out yet was that it was minted in 1,408,000 PC. My collection was started, I had two coins in my collection, and it was complete. I was collecting coins that had to do with the 17th of May.

10 kroner 1964 with the coat of arms and the Eidsvoll building issued in 1,408,000 PC, about 1/3 of the Norwegian population.

In 1989 I had been a coin-dealer for 15 years, and a consultant for the Bank of Norway. We were discussing the new coin to be issued commemorating the 175th anniversary for the Norwegian Constitution. The design was agreed. On the obverse would have the coat of arms with the Chain of the Order of Saint Olav. The reverse would have the Eidsvoll building where was the Constitution was ratified.

The question was what the face value of the coin should be. 100, 150 and 200 kroner were discussed. Ole-Robert Kolberg, the director of The Royal Norwegian Mint, came up with the very odd face value, 175th Anniversary -175 kroner. It was agreed. It was also agreed to issue a total of 100,000 PC, 85,000 in un-circulated condition to be sold for face value of about 800 baht and a special edition with a mirror like surface to be sold for about 2,200 baht.

175 kroner of 1989, sold for 175 kroner, about 800 baht, value today about 2,400 baht.

Some time later when the coin was put out for exchange and sale, there were lines with hundreds of people outside banks and coin-dealers. I do not know if the great interest was because of the low mintage, the interesting face value, hopes that the coin would increase in value or the appreciation of the Constitution.

For most it is a combination. And the ones hoping to make a good investment and who were able to get the coins did well. The value for the two coins issued in 1989 is today about 3- 4 times more than they paid.

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Animal Crackers: A Badger, no less!

by Mirin MacCarthy

Recently we were astounded by the sight of a weird animal riding round Pattaya in the front basket of a motorcycle. It was unrestrained, claws up on the basket, apparently enjoying the ride with wind in its fur. With a long snout, black and white striped face and bushy tail it looked like a cross between a tiny bear cub, a possum and a ferret. Our driver, from the U.K. knew it, having seen them before, “Hey that was a badger, you must have them here too.”

Right again, indeed the territory of the Eurasian or Oriental badger runs across Europe and Asia, including Japan.

The badger is a social, bear-like animal with a stocky 1 metre body, short tail and short but powerful legs armed with wicked claws on the front feet. It also walks on the soles of its feet like a bear, but the resemblance ends there, as the badger is actually from the same family as otters and weasels. One characteristic is that their footprints show five toes, compared to dogs, which only have four.

A badger’s coat looks grey, but the individual hairs are black and white. The most striking part of the badger, however, is its head. This is white with two black stripes running from behind the ears almost to the tip of the muzzle.

Eurasian Badgers live in social groups of, on average, 6 adults (although groups as large as 23 have been recorded). Most people aren’t aware of them though since badgers are only seen by humans when the animals are out alone at night to forage. How some brave person actually introduced this nocturnal creature to motorcycle riding is truly amazing.

Badgers actually live together in large underground catacombs called “setts.” These are systems of interlocking tunnels with nest chambers, toilets, and several entrances. Badgers inherit setts from their parents, generation after generation, while always expanding and refining them. The result is huge tunnel systems that are, in some cases, actually centuries old. Excavation of a sett in England revealed that it contained 879 meters of tunnels, 50 chambers and 178 entrances. The researchers estimated that its construction required the removal of 70 tons of soil!

Badgers are correctly termed omnivores as they eat an extremely wide variety of foods. Insects, other invertebrates, small mammals, reptiles, fruits and other plant matter, worms and carrion are all part of their diet.

Badgers generally have 3 or 4 cubs in a litter. The cubs open their eyes after 1 month and nurse for about two and a half months. They can leave home when an animal is as young as 7 or 8 months, but usually hang around, and many badgers (particularly females) never leave their parents at all.

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Copyright 2000  Pattaya Mail Publishing Co.Ltd.
370/7-8 Pattaya Second Road, Pattaya City, Chonburi 20260, Thailand 
Tel.66-38 411 240-1, 413 240-1, Fax:66-38 427 596; e-mail: [email protected]
Updated by Chinnaporn Sangwanlek, assisted by Boonsiri Suansuk.