DINING OUT - ENTERTAINMENT

The Rice Mill

Rediscovered!

Not long ago, the Rice Mill was an upscale Chinese restaurant in the Royal Garden Plaza. Then with the redevelopment of the Food Court area, the Rice Mill just disappeared.

Well, it didn’t quite disappear - it relocated itself! This time inside the Pattaya Marriott Resort and Spa, down one flight of stairs next to the internal lifts in the hotel. Arriving at the lower ground level, you will immediately see some of the familiar Chinese decor items from the ‘old’ Rice Mill, including the wooden rice mill itself, which gave the restaurant its name. Large airy windows along one side look out onto a garden bed near the swimming pool, so you are not dining in the dungeon.

At the invitation of their energetic young F&B manager, Dylan Counsel, we went to the ‘new’ Rice Mill for a dim sum lunch buffet. This is an all-inclusive B. 300++ offer, so we were interested to see just how they would handle this style of dining.

Anyone who has dined in Hong Kong will remember the typical dim sum. A noisy hubbub of gobbling humanity, laminate tables hastily sloshed down before the next sitting, bored girls pushing trolleys mindlessly parading up and down, while chomping diners select their next item with the wave of a well-directed plastic chopstick. I am pleased to report that the Rice Mill dim sum is nothing like that. In any way!

To begin with, there is still that certain refined atmosphere to this restaurant, making it a pleasant place for lunch (or even a business lunch). The staff is all there, but unobtrusive, yet ready if called. Secondly, there are no trolleys and there are certainly no hurriedly wiped laminate tabletops.

We were shown to our marble-topped table and seated in comfortable chairs while the staff brought over a huge platter of garden salad vegetables and dishes of condiments were arranged around it. These included Chinese sausage, Shanghai dressing, croutons and crab slices, sweet and sour sauce, soy sauce (both dark and light) and 1000 Island dressing for those who cannot live without it (I can). It was only after taking in the size of the garden greens platter that I had time to note the elegant black chopsticks, complete with silver ends decorously arranged on the spoon rests.

In true dim sum fashion, food then began to arrive at the table, with the deep-fried items first including crispy spring rolls, deep-fried wontons and lightly fried taro balls. These were closely followed by BBQ pork and roast duck with honey. The latter was an outstanding dish, by the way.

As the steamed dishes began to arrive on our table, a soup also arrived, this being a Szechwan hot and sour soup. This soup is sensational. Not too spicy, but more ‘tangy’, with a good body and I will go back to the Rice Mill, just to have more of this item. Truly!

Again like all traditional dim sums, the range of dishes is extraordinary, including steamed shrimp dumpling, steamed barbeque pork bun, steamed pork dumpling, steamed minced pork with mushroom, noodle rolls with chicken and pork and much more. There was also a bowl of exceptionally light and fluffy fried rice.

Being an ‘all you can eat’ deal is often the invitation to gorge oneself, but neither Madame nor I could go past the quantities that were brought to our table. In fact, there was more than we could eat.

We were very pleased to re-acquaint ourselves with the Rice Mill. The relocation has not meant that there has been any decrease in the previously high standards from the higher floors of the Royal Garden Plaza. It may be somewhat smaller, but this lends itself more towards an intimate dining. The lunchtime offer makes it a very viable alternative for diners in Pattaya, and as previously mentioned, for business lunches in particular. Highly recommended.

The Rice Mill, Pattaya Marriott Resort and Spa, 218/2-4 Moo 10 Beach Road, Pattaya (but best reached from Second Road), telephone 038 412 120 ext 1361. Secure parking under the Royal Garden Plaza. Open seven days, 12 noon - 2.30 p.m. for lunch and 6 p.m. - 10 p.m. for dinner.