L’Hippo combines good food with a bit of French “spice”

by Jay Patterson
In the mood for some excellent Thai, French or Belgian food indoors or al fresco? If so, then L’Hippo is a place where one can enjoy all three. The dining experience is accompanied by a mini Lido-type show, a la Francaise.
Located in Soi 2, L’Hippo has various ambience from which to choose. If you desire tropical breezes and a show in a real Thai atmosphere, the outside tables provide good food and fascinating entertainment. The inside has a more elegant French decor, with swaths of drapes and an intimate bar. My companion and I, having lived here for sometime, opted for the inside so we could see the show and enjoy French elegance at the same time.
We were greeted by the charming owner, Khun Marc, who is very French in the best sense of the word. A fascinating raconteur, my friend and I were regaled with interesting stories as only a Gallic gentleman can tell them.
But on to the food.! Having decided to savour French and Belgian cuisine, we ordered a classic French Potage to start. We were pleasantly surprised as potato soup is usually heavy on the gooey cream with only the vapour from the potato left in the soup. Not here, though. This was a true potage made from tender pureed potatoes and just the right consistency. My friend and I suffered many spoon collisions in our eagerness to get at this light, fragrant soup.
We then tried the house salad. This was true home-style French food. Pieces of cheese, potato, egg and tender bacon spilled on to a bed of lush lettuce. My friend, although protesting her inability to eat much, seemed to feel sorry for the salad plate and surreptitiously relieved it of its burden, thinking we didn’t see. Considering the piquancy of the salad, who could blame her? I got my oar in though, and the delightfully crusty French bread disappeared with my friend reaching bewilderedly into an empty basket which Khun Marc smilingly refilled. As I cannot eat seafood, my companion had complete revenge and ordered the tomatoes Provencale. Tasty tuna and an array of herbs and spices peeked coyly out of juicy, yet firm tomatoes. She assured me, with a smile of triumph at my defeat, that these delights brought back the days when she had eaten renowned Provencale home-cooking in France.
Wanting to try some true Belgian home-cooking, Khun Marc suggested the beef tongue in gravy with pureed potatoes. Although I quailed a bit at the thought of tongue, we took Khun Marc’s bait. This dish was served on a most elegant platter and, despite my initial prejudice, it was savoury and warming. I had always refused to eat tongue because it was tongue. We ladled the tender pieces of beef over warm pureed potatoes and conversation was halted a bit as it is impolite to talk with one’s mouth constantly full.
Although we felt like beached whales, I thought it would be terribly impolite not to try one more dish. Another success, the stewed beef in beer was warming and satisfying. My friend, looking at this ambrosial concoction, said she could not eat another bite. You can guess what happened.
What is a good meal without a sweet end to it? At Khun Marc’s suggestion we ordered the Profiteroles. Bite-size, cream filled eclairs came surrounded by luscious ice creamlets as colourful as French chorines. They were gone in a flash.
We had an Australian white wine with dinner which my friend, who is wise in the ways of the grape, said was fruity yet not heavy.
During dinner, a Cabaret (not all transvestites) show was performed on the outside stage. There was a mixture of men, women and transvestites in this show and it was quite a treat for tourists to figure out who was who and what was what. The performers obviously rehearsed. The dancing was in synch and there were leggy lovelies of every type for the diners’ delectation. The show added a bit of naughty French spice to an enjoyable evening.
The prices for food and wine were in the medium range and the service most charming and efficient.

Recipe

“SILVESTER” GOOSE

Buy a good size young goose. Clean it and dry it with a towel. Cut off any superfluous pieces of fat at the neck and the tail end and render it. Rub the bird inside out with a little Japanese soy sauce which promotes the browning and stab it all over with a knitting needle. Knitting needles are hard to come buy these days so use some other sharp instrument. This will allow the fat under the skin to escape.
Place the bird in an moderately hot oven over a baking tray and brown evenly on both sides. Do not burn!! Remove from oven and set aside.
Meanwhile peel two large onions and a carrot or two in julienne pieces. “Sauté” this mixture in the fat drippings of the goose until the onions become transparent. Place the goose in a roasting pan together with the onion and carrot mixture - if you don’t have a pan that size you may consider cutting the bird into pieces or placing it in a tray in the oven. Add half a bottle of Riesling or Sylvaner wine and half a glass of orange juice. Also add a “Bouquet Garnis” of half a tablespoon of dried thyme, two bay leaves, four cloves, half a tablespoon of paprika powder, a small piece of cinnamon or half a teaspoon of powdered cinnamon. If there is not enough fat, which is unlikely, add some butter. Cover the pan (one has to add liquid to the juices in the oven from time to time during the cooking). Cook over a low fire until the goose is tender while turning it from time to time.
Remove the goose from the juices, set aside and let the liquids stand for while. The fat will come to the surface. Scoop it off and use it for something like goose liver paté. Remove the bay leaves, the “Bai Makrut” and the piece of cinnamon and put the sauce in an electric blender. When smooth, strain it and add about two teaspoons of finely grated orange peel (only the orange part please, as the white is bitter and it would spoil your dish). Bring to a boil and when too thick add some more wine. Taste for salt and serve the pieces of goose covered with the delicious sauce (a modern affectation, to make it look better, is to place the meat on top of the sauce. Canned peaches or some other fruit compote go well with this festive dish and I suggest mashed or boiled potatoes to absorb “Le Jus”. Incidentally, if you find it difficult to obtain geese, by all means use ducks.