DINING OUT &  KHUN OCHA'S COOKBOOK

Café des Amis

The ultimate ambience?

by Miss Terry Diner

It had been a while since our last official visit to Café des Amis, so it was with some expectations that we arrived to do our review. Was it as good as before? Or better? Had it evolved or become complacent? Restaurants are like any other business and the pathway between success or failure can be very narrow.

For those yet to discover Café des Amis, go up Thappraya Road from South Pattaya and turn into Soi 11 on your left. There is an illuminated sign, but the soi number is most easily spotted. Run down to the bottom and the restaurant is directly in front of you, behind the ornamental wooden doors.

As you go through the portals, a tropical garden appears and as you walk around it to the right, you enter the restaurant’s cocktail/wine bar area to be almost overwhelmed by the all-encompassing warm ambience.

The history of the building is interesting, being one of a small village of homes built by a French architect some years ago. These were all done in an ‘over the top’ Siamese style, and that feeling is still present today, with restaurant owner/manager Blu making sure that it is maintained.

The menu offerings show some changes from the original, with British chef Mark providing a more international approach, though French inspired. “We even have some curries,” said Blu. However, it is not a totally congested multi-page menu, but two pages of well selected items.

Starters (B. 160-290) begin with home made chicken liver parfait with toast served with an onion marmalade and other tempting items such as pan seared scallops with avocado salsa and deep fried Atlantic crab spring rolls with ginger and coriander dipping sauce.

Into the mains and again, the prices are certainly not excessive, with the majority between B. 380-450. Items such as imported steaks do come with a premium, but even these peak at only B. 850. Interesting offerings include pork Normand, an oven cooked pork fillet wrapped in bacon served with candied apples and finished with a cream cider jus; braised lamb shank with mint mashed potatoes and a rosemary jus or a beef stroganoff with brandy and spicy paprika, cut from an Australian fillet steak sliced and cooked with a shot of brandy, fresh cream, spicy paprika and mushrooms, and served with jasmine rice.

The wine list is well thought out, with offerings from both the old and new worlds and listed by grape variety. Most are in the range of B. 1,200-2,000 and we selected the Australian Barwick Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (B. 1,790) and this is a very, very pleasant smooth full bodied wine. I can recommend it highly.

Dinner began with the Amuse Bouche from the chef, a seafood crepe, which has the taste buds looking for more.

For starters, Madame chose the pieces of crispy fried duck with a julienne of crispy vegetables and a plum and hoy sin sauce (B. 280). This dish just melted in the mouth and we will have it again on our next (private) visit. I had ordered the pan-seared scallops with avocado salsa (B. 290) which was also very pleasant.

For mains, Madame went for the crab and shrimp thermidore while I ordered the pan fried NZ John Dory fish with a prawn and cucumber sauce. Both of these were excellent eating.

After dinner we lingered in the wine bar - the ambience just draws you in.

Café des Amis is now two years old, and has progressed from being a funky little restaurant off a small soi off Thappraya Road into being a superb boutique restaurant with probably the best ambience in Pattaya. The prices are very reasonable, especially with a restaurant having dishes of such high standard and generous portion size. It has garnered itself an excellent reputation amongst the epicures on the Eastern Seaboard, and one which it deserves. Very highly recommended (and the crispy duck was simply superb).

Café des Amis, 391/6 Soi 11, Thappraya Road, Jomtien, telephone 038 364 327, open 4.30 p.m. until late (closed on Tuesdays). Smart casual dress code. Website www.pattayabistro.com. Plenty of parking outside. Complimentary chauffeur pick-up from the South Pattaya area if required.


Khao Tom (Thai Rice Soup)

This is one of the commonest staples in Thailand. Khao Tom (rice soup) can be found anywhere, and most city blocks will have at least one local ‘restaurant’ that specializes in this dish. Khao Tom is the base to which you can add chicken, pork, prawns, seafood, or whatever takes your fancy! The addition of the eggs is a personal one, depending on how the chef feels that day!

Ingredients                          Serves 4
Pork or chicken stock                      6 cups
Ginger root, minced fresh                1 tbspn
Shallots, minced and crushed           2 large
Lemon grass                  1 stalk (cut in two)
Rice                                              3/4 cup
Ground pork minced                       250 gm
Eggs                                                     2
Fish sauce                                   2 tbspns
Maggi sauce                                  1 tbspn
Scallion, for garnish                        1 sliced
Deep-fried garlic              1 tbspn for garnish
Coriander fresh, chopped 1 tbspn for garnish

Cooking method

In the wok heat the stock and then add ginger root, shallots, lemon grass and rice and bring to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 20 to 30 minutes, or until soup is a porridge-like consistency. Remove and discard lemon grass. Add the pork and fish sauce and then break the two eggs into the soup, stir and then simmer five minutes more. Garnish with scallion, fried garlic and coriander.