|
Pai: The changing face of a northern charmer
Wat Luang in Pai.
Pai, a small district in Thailand’s northernmost province of Mae Hong
Son, has become a favorite destination for travelers in the last several
years and, like it or not, the once idyllic town has changed almost
upside down.
The past two years have seen more than half a million tourists flock to
the mountainous district following word of mouth recommendations,
whether backpackers or more well-off travelers, who described it as a
“must-visit” spot to get close to nature - the mountains, a lazy river,
cool breeze, fresh air and stunning views.
Vorathep Gantadee, chairman of the Pai Tourism Association, said the
small town had less than 30 guesthouses and hotels some eight years ago
but the number has currently increased to over 200 outlets, owned by
locals and outside investors alike.
It is now easier access to Pai by commercial flights that have played a
major role in its rapid development for travelers, so that they could
avoid the tough land journey on rough roads that zigzag through the
mountains.
According to Vorathep, backpackers formerly paid only Bt80-120 per
room/night but the accommodation rates have sharply gone up to as high
as Bt10,000 per room/night. During the high season, a luxury room can
shoot up to Bt11,000 per room/night. He also reminisced that in the
past, Pai’s early hoteliers only had small cottages with fans, which was
part of the charm.
But now air-conditioned rooms are needed for their business.
Land prices in Pai have unbelievably skyrocketed for the past ten years
to almost the same rate as in highly-developed Chiang Mai province,
Thailand’s economic hub for the North. In ‘tourist-infested’ areas such
as the walking streets, Vorathep said, land is sold at Bt50,000-60,000
per square wah (about two square meters) or around Bt20 million per rai.
Land in the district’s outlying areas has also increased at average of
Bt1-2 million per rai.
“Within a short period of time, the price of land has gone up so quickly
from Bt5 million to Bt10 million, and further on to Bt20 million within
a year,” said Patchari Arjharn, a resort owner in Pai.
The rapid development and changing infrastructure have affected Pai’s
rural charm as well as local residents’ way of life, while businessmen
in the travel industry have observed a gradual saturation which compels
them to rethink which direction Pai should move forward in the future.
As a local resident, Arporn Sangchot described the rapid change in her
hometown in the last few years as “unusual and too fast.” She expressed
concern that the growth was so fast that the people’s simple and
traditional way of life has been replaced by business-oriented and
money-making attitudes. Many locals sold their land to investors and
moved away, out to the outskirts of the town, or even further.
Pai’s traditional identity and culture are on the verge of vanishing
and, if the situation carries on, Pai will finally lose its charm, said
Arporn.
“If we don’t help each other and ignore to take any action, nothing will
be left for us in the next five years,” she warned. “Our way of life
will become a thing of the past and people at the grassroots will suffer
most.”
Local hotelier Walaiporn Ruengnitigul admits that she has contemplated
selling her business to get away from the tough competition.
“The situation is like outsiders want to come in and insiders want to
get out. The competition in the hotel business is fierce. Local
entrepreneurs can hardly compete with big-time investors who own major
resorts and hotels,” Walaiporn said.
She added that a room is rented at only Bt700-800 a night during
off-peak season and “some local operators think it might be better if
they sell off their businesses.”
Pai, once a “young girl” of the North, has grown up and become a fashion
icon. Some say the town has only become gracefully sophisticated but
others blame her for putting on too many excessive accessories, thus
obliterating her own genuine style.
But in the end, no matter what Pai would become, it depends on the
cooperation of local people, businessmen and visitors in sustaining its
beauty so that tourists will come back - again and again. (TNA)
|
