DINING OUT -  KHUN OCHA'S COOKBOOK & ENTERTAINMENT

Pagoda:   by Miss Terry Diner

A ‘pagoda’ is a style of structure which originated in Indian architecture and its contents were revered by the population. It would be fanciful, however, to imagine that the Pagoda restaurant in Jomtien was so named because its contents were revered! On the contrary, owner Helmut Zimmermann explained that while searching for a name for his new restaurant, he was given a small pagoda by a friend, and that was the stimulus to call his restaurant Pagoda, which has now been open for eight months.
Pagoda is somewhat off the beaten track, being deep inside the Jomtien Complex, on the second soi (to make it easier to locate, the Poseidon restaurant is on the first soi and the Pagoda site had been previously a restaurant called ‘Flamboyant’). The complex is an amazing mish-mash of restaurants, bars, curio shops and massage parlors, and Pagoda does stand out as a culinary oasis in that area.
The restaurant is in two sections, an outside (but covered) terrace which seats 16 and the air-conditioned inner area seating 36. Close to the door is a sit-up bar for pre-dinner drinks before going into the restaurant proper, which features very comfortable chairs and large tables. It is so relaxing to be able to sit comfortably and expansively. The internal décor is superbly executed Asian, with an intriguing ceiling of suspended Bor Sang paper umbrellas, which wave gently with the movement of the air.
The gold-covered menu is quite detailed, and it is well worth sitting down with an aperitif to study the choices, which incorporates weekly specials, as well regular items and even a (B. 750) five course set menu option.
For those dining on the terrace there are two specials - a Swiss cheese fondue for two at B. 575 per person and a Swiss cheese raclette for two at B. 625 per person. Helmut also recommends some Swiss wines to go with these dishes.
Six home-made soups (B. 110-130) begin the main menu and from there you have cold and hot starters and all the choices of meats, fish, pastas and salads with most under B. 300 and a very tempting Chateaubriand for two at only B. 790. There is also a fair selection of Thai dishes around B. 140-180.
The wine list is large enough to give choice, but not so large as to confuse, with labels from the old and new worlds. Some are under B. 1000 whilst almost all are under B. 2000.
We began with a starter from the weekly specials for Madame, which was oysters Pagoda, with the six oysters in the shell gratinee with hollandaise sauce and parmesan cheese (B. 280), whilst I selected the curried cream of chicken soup (B. 110). The oysters were plump and very flavorsome, and the chicken cream soup had just the correct amount of ‘bite’ with the Malaysian curry, and I added a swizzle of freshly ground black pepper. An auspicious start to the evening.
With the main course, we had ordered the Australian Tall Poppy Cabernet Sauvignon (and at B. 1060 great bouquet and great quaffing) of which our waiter had delayed my tasting of the bottle until I had rinsed my mouth clean following my Ricard aperitif. Very thoughtful, and showed good understanding of the position as sommelier.
For her main course, Madame selected the rock lobster thermidor with potatoes gratinee and creamed spinach (B. 380), whilst I had decided on the stuffed chicken breast with mint and feta cheese accompanied by potatoes wrapped in bacon and zucchini (B. 250).
Both main courses were excellent and showed that the chef had a good command of the requirements of both the crustacean and the poultry, and it was refreshing not to get bunches of steamed julienned carrots and asparagus spears as accompanying vegetables. The bacon-wrapped potatoes and the spinach were wonderful.
We finished our evening with a de-caff cappuccino for Madame and a ‘real’ one for me. It had been a great night of relaxation and good food, and we can certainly recommend you give Pagoda a call. Booking is best.
Pagoda Restaurant, 413/51-53 Jomtien Complex Soi 2, telephone Helmut 089 804 1450, email [email protected], open seven days 6 p.m. until late. Parking within the complex.


Balinese Fried Rice

Here is something a little different from the usual Asian fried rice. The garlic and chillies will give this a little more zing than standard fried rice, but remember that the degree of spiciness is under the control of the cook! The secret with all fried rice is to use the boiled rice left over from yesterday which has been stored in the fridge.

 Cooking Method:  
Heat the margarine in the wok and add the onions until they change color. Add the ham strips and garlic and stir-fry quickly and then add the chilli sauce and the chopped spring onions.
Now break up the cold boiled rice and slowly add to the work, letting the rice warm up without burning.
When the rice is thoroughly warmed through, add the prawns, soy sauce and fish sauce and continue stirring until the prawns are also hot.
Serve in a warmed dish and sprinkle with the scrambled egg and finally garnish with the tomato slices.

Ingredients                   Serves 4
Polyunsaturated margarine     4 tbspns
Onion, coarsely chopped                  2
Cooked ham in thin strips        225 gm
Garlic, finely chopped              1 clove
Chilli sauce                           1 tbspn
Spring onions, chopped                   4
Cold, dry boiled rice               225 gm
Prawns, small peeled            225 gm
Soy sauce                            1 tbspn
Fish sauce                            1 tbspn
Scrambled eggs                             4
Peeled tomatoes, sliced                 2