by Miss Terry Diner
A couple of weeks ago, when we reviewed the resurrected
Mata Hari at the crest of Thappraya Road, I wrote, “For some time now, I
have been reporting that Jomtien has been becoming the culinary capital of
Pattaya.” Now with Gian’s Italian Restaurant opening as well, this further
seals Jomtien’s position in the dining out stakes. You can dine for a month
in Jomtien and never repeat yourself. And dine well, I might add.
However, let’s look at Gian’s, Jomtien’s latest up-market eatery. This
restaurant is the brainchild of Guido Vietri, a true Italian, with the venue
having an ambience reflecting Italy today, a modern vibrant country, but
with a history stretching back to the pre-Roman days. Gian’s is also Guido’s
eighth restaurant, so he is no newcomer to the business, and this venue has
taken 10 months in the building and preparation.
The restaurant is in two main areas. There is the ‘outside’ section, with
wrought iron furniture, in which smoking is permitted, and from there you
enter the air-conditioned restaurant with its terracotta tiles, classy
wooden tables and chairs, cream linen tablecloths, porcelain plates and
polished cutlery, and quality glassware. Along the back wall is the
glassed-in open kitchen, where chef Giovanni from Napoli (but with five
years in Bangkok’s Italian kitchens) oversees the food preparation and
cooking. In the far corner there is a small wine display, rather than
‘cellar’ for guests to peruse the Italian wines.
The food menu begins with some specials and Madame found herself tempted by
the Marinated Sea Bass (B. 325) from that section, while I chose the
Carpaccio di Manzo con Rugola e olio Tartufato (B. 290) from the list of
starters, which range in price from B. 250-360.
Salads are next (B. 200-295), then pastas (B. 240-390),
meats (B. 365-1200) with imported beef at the top end, and seafood items (B.
395-795).
The wine list covers a good range of Italian wines, by region (e.g. Venezia,
Veneto or even Sicilia) and there is a choice of house wines by the glass or
bottle. The wines start at around B. 750, with the majority being in the B.
1,000-2,000 range. As the accompaniment to our food we drank a bottle of
Zuccolo Friuli Grave Chardonnay, a very aromatic wine, and inexpensive at B.
1,300.
Madame enjoyed her sea bass so much that she initially refused to let me
have even a small taste, but later relented. The seafood taste was allowed
to come through the marinade, with just a hint of vinegar to cut the oil. I
could see why she did not want to share it. However, my carpaccio was also
superb, and I would recommend this dish any time.
For mains, Madame had chosen a platter with grilled meats, including lamb.
This was a very large dish (platter) and was grilled to her order, while I
went for the imported Tasmanian salmon fillet with white wine cream sauce
(B. 395), which was most enjoyable. Again this came in a very large portion
and both mains were presented on pre-warmed plates.
It was an enjoyable evening at Gian’s. However, I do not believe that this
is the choice of restaurant if all you want is a quick pizza and pasta. The
cuisine deserves a leisurely lunch or dinner and time to savor the tastes
that modern Italian cooking can provide. The beef carpaccio that you wrap
around the rugola with the truffle oil being a classic example. A wonderful
mélange of flavors to be slowly enjoyed. The service personnel were
enthusiastic, but some were not all that well experienced. This is something
that Guido knows about, and it will be addressed. It should not be forgotten
that the restaurant had been open only around one month when reviewed.
A welcome addition to the ranks of the ‘better’ restaurants in Pattaya
(Jomtien really) and one, like a good wine, that will improve with age.
Gian’s Italian Restaurant, 306/73 M12, Chateau Dale complex (between Bruno’s
and Indian by Nature), Thappraya Road, Jomtien, telephone 038 364 834. Open
seven days, 11 a.m. till 2 p.m. for lunch and 6 p.m. till late for dinner.
Ample supervised parking in the Chateau Dale plaza.
