Mez, in the Sheraton

For a totally superb experience

by Miss Terry Diner

After settling in to our chairs in the Mez restaurant in the Sheraton, I had to ask Executive Chef Olivier Belliard just how should we pronounce the name! Was it “Metz”, “Maize” or “Mez” (like fez)? Olivier opined that since the restaurant was on a mezzanine floor, it was just “Mez”. So now you know.
But I have jumped ahead of myself a little. After the fabulous Chaine des Rotisseurs dinner a couple of weeks ago, we decided it would be good to experience this new restaurant, in this new five star property. We rolled up to the front of the resort to enquire where was the parking lot. I still do not know, as the Sheraton’s valet parking man relieved me of all my worries, and we were left in the charge of one of the Sheraton ladies who took us personally to the Mez.
This was a good idea, as firstly it is some way from the hotel lobby, and we would have got lost, but secondly we were given a guided tour of the property, which is just sensational. The architect who managed to plan the buildings cascading down the steep topography was definitely worth his fee, said Madame, as we followed our gracious guide.
Eventually you reach the Mez, entering through a very large glass door, to be met by the vivacious hostesses, dressed a la mode, Madame immediately said she was jealous!
The venue is spectacular. A glass wall at the front, allowing uninterrupted views of the sea and neighboring islands, a glass wall at the back overlooking a waterfall and tropical vegetation and a bar on one side, leading through to the kitchen. Wood predominates, the tables are large and the chairs are comfortable. After five minutes you do not want to leave.
After an Amuse Bouche of prawn on a bed of spicy guacamole and some garlic bread we were presented with our starter, a pumpkin coconut soup served with cauliflower cappuccino, with a selection of beans filling the soup spoon (B. 320). My heart fell when our waitress told me, as I do not like pumpkin! To humor chef Olivier, I tried it. The only word to use was ‘sensational’! Incredibly smooth with a melding of tastes and flavors. I still hate pumpkin, but I love the Mez pumpkin soup.
From there we went on a culinary extravaganza with a crispy tuna and green chilli sauce (B. 450), and a pepper crusted sea bass, served in a deep soup bowl with baby potatoes and crunchy greens (B. 640). Both of these seafood dishes were unique and superb examples of what a creative chef can do, when given a free hand.
We finished with a lacquered duck breast with caramelized daikon combined with honey and a mixed spice jus (B. 680), with Madame managing to extract from Olivier that cinnamon was one of the spices. This dish was notable in that even with all the accompaniments, the duck meat retained its true duck flavor. Another tour de force!
We drank the house white (which came in chilled glasses), a Chilean Noble Vintages, but there were many reasonably priced wines on offer generally between B. 1,500-2,000 with a mixture of both old and new worlds. There were also some premium wines such as the Chateau Lafite Rothschild Pauillac Bordeaux 1990 for B. 26,000.
It was certainly a superb evening. The setting, the food and the service puts the Mez right amongst the very best restaurants that Pattaya has to offer. Executive chef Olivier Belliard makes up much of the restaurant’s appeal with his innovative cuisine, but the service personnel should not be forgotten either. Personality plus, just heightening the experience. And the venue? Almost second to none.
Not a cheap evening, but it is not designed that way. The Sheraton is offering the diner something ‘better’ than you could ever imagine. Highest recommendation possible. Do try it, you will not be disappointed, and even if you don’t like pumpkin, order Olivier’s pumpkin soup!
The Mez restaurant, Sheraton Pattaya Resort, 437 Pratamnak Road, telephone 038 259 888, fax 038 259 899, email [email protected], www.sheraton.com/pattaya. Open from 6 p.m. till 10.30 p.m., closed Sundays.