Olivier Belliard

by Dr. Iain Corness

Remember the ditty – “Join the navy to see the world”? The executive chef at the Sheraton Resort in Pattaya, Olivier Belliard, also wanted to see the world, but realized very early that the best way to do that was through the world’s kitchens. The most portable skill is undoubtedly cooking! However, Olivier does not see his chosen profession as a ‘skill’ but, “It is like painting. It is an art,” said Olivier. Adding, “but food is not as expensive as a painting!” Olivier also has a sense of humor. He also admitted “I like eating! I can eat anything!”
He is French (very), having been born in Deauville in Normandie, the younger of two sons born to a French policeman. His mother stayed at home to look after the boys, “A housewife is the worst job in the world,” said Olivier, but surprisingly, it was his policeman father who steered him towards the professional kitchens of the world. “He cooked at home, and I can remember making desserts with him.”
He stayed at school until he was 15 years old, and then went to cooking academy. He knew instinctively that this was his true course in life. He even used to have destination posters on his bedroom walls. This was a young man who was going to go places!
After two years he had his diploma and after another two he had a degree in the culinary arts. He then struck out for Paris, prompting me to ask as to whether he had harbored some ideas on particular restaurants or hotels in which he wanted to work. “No. It was a girl,” said Olivier, reminding me that yes, he really is French.
He spent six years in his national capital, on and off, alternating with seasons in the Caribbean and the Alps, where he cooked for French President Jacques Chirac and his family on two occasions.
However, it was time to leave France for some more permanent overseas experience. He was offered a job in Lebanon to open a restaurant there, and away he went. “I knew it was the start of my international career,” said Olivier. Now while Lebanon, still rebuilding after years of internal strife, might not be yours and my choice to begin an international career, Olivier described it differently. “It was a lot of pressure, but it was interesting. It was fun!” He stayed there for 12 fun-filled months, but then was offered a job in Kuwait, a franchise of the restaurant he had opened in Lebanon. This time all his friends counseled against it, but the owner invited him to come and have a look, ferrying the young chef around in his personal Ferrari. After three days, he said yes!
Six months after his affirmative, the latest of George Dubbya’s wars of ‘diplomacy’ started. Olivier left, but returned one month later to work for a very high profile sheik, who had royal connections. This rich Kuwaiti had built a shopping mall and an upscale restaurant, and Olivier worked from there. Again, Olivier found it “interesting”. “I saw the war business, with high profile people, UN officials and others, all dining there.” Personally I might use another adjective to describe the “war business”, but as Olivier pointed out correctly, it is a business (but I would hazard a guess that the Iraqis were certainly not kept in the business loop). However, to add to Olivier’s growing list of famous patrons, he was also required to cook and cater for some of the Kuwaiti royal families.
He spent 18 months in Kuwait, but wanted to get further round the world. He had a hankering for Asian cuisine ever since his first foray into Paris, when he had lived in Chinatown, and when another chef told him of a position coming up to be the opening chef at the Sheraton in Pattaya, this looked like a fine entrée into Asia. “I thought to myself, why not? It looked like being a great challenge. I thought about having a little garden where I could grow some herbs, but there was no room!”
As well as finding suppliers for the new resort kitchen, young Olivier also found that there were some cultural “rules” he would have to abide by, but he was ready for this. “When you travel, each place has its own characteristics. Different peoples have their own identities. I like the new experience, a new challenge.”
I asked him if he had a favorite cuisine himself, but he denied this. “You must not restrict your vision. You have to update yourself, as everything goes so fast. I look at different ways to prepare the food. I am looking at different textures, as well as taste.” It is also on record that he has been very successful with this approach, and his efforts at the last Chaine des Rotisseurs dinner are being used as the benchmark for all the following Chaine events this year.
Olivier Belliard admits he is not a conformist. His hairstyle and goatee are just part of the trappings of a person with an individualistic leaning. He does, however, admit that his GM at the Sheraton Resort, David Cuddon, has helped him to be more aware of himself. But Olivier will always be someone with strong ideas. “For me cooking is entertainment. Cooking is creation. Cooking is a philosophy, a lifestyle.”
As you would imagine, his hobby is also one where he can express himself artistically – photography. This has been a hobby ever since he was 16 years old. “I look to see which angle, and what the lighting will do.” Photography can be art, as well as cooking.
We need more Oliviers in this world, but do not ask him for a steak and two veg. He would be offended. But a Black Australian Angus steak with selected vegetables from the local gardens will arrive with Olivier’s herbs, spices or sauces, to make that an individual dish as well! Welcome to Pattaya, Olivier.