Or even Capriccioso!
by Miss Terry Diner
For many reasons, this week’s review has been a long time
coming, including kitchen staff changes and the normal settling down time
for any new restaurant. Now with a Swiss trained Thai chef (Peter), the
original concept of a stylish restaurant with contemporary cuisine is coming
to fruition, we were assured, so when we were given the nod by the Royal
Cliff Beach Resort’s Deputy GM Ranjith Chandrasiri, we accepted with
alacrity.
The Royal Cliff Beach Resort has 10 restaurants, and the
Caprice is in the Royal Wing and Spa, so we went there expecting something
rather special, I must admit. Entering the foyer of the Royal Wing and
immediately you are being transported into an upscale world. Take the
elevator to the first floor and you are ejected almost straight into the
arms of the welcoming hostess. Through the heavy doors and you are into a
bright world of chrome and glass and modern decor.
One wall of the restaurant/bar area looks directly out to the swimming pool,
and there are some tables outside for those who enjoy the balmy evening air;
however, we chose the cool of the air-conditioning. We were joined for
pre-dinner drinks by Ranjith and Marcel Sawyer, the resident manager of the
Royal Wing, so we could try the bar area first. Definitely worth lingering
for a few minutes before moving into the restaurant proper.
We began with a palate freshening “amuse bouche” which comes in several
styles on a carousel on the table. Madame began in earnest with the smoked
salmon tartar, avocado timbale cold appetizer (B. 320), while I began more
modestly with the French onion soup (B. 150) with its paprika cheese
croutons. It had been a great start, with my soup hot to the table.
When we looked at the menu, the choices of main dishes
were obviously carefully chosen and varied (B. 420-750) and cover meat,
poultry, fish and crustaceans. Madame went for the grilled Australian beef
tenderloin and it was superb, cooked to order and tender. For myself, the
char grilled Australian barramundi with a lime and lemongrass sauce was my
final pick, though the pan-roasted salmon steak flavored with anis on NZ
mussels and coriander cream sauce sounded very inviting too.
Both our mains were first class, and we (unfortunately) had no room for
desserts.
For wines, we stuck with the Royal Cliff Beach Resort’s own label, which is
not only eminently drinkable, but eminently affordable too. These are
bottled expressly for the resort and have been chosen by the Wine Club
president Ranjith Chandrasiri, Thailand’s best known wine judge.
We finished a very satisfactory evening by nibbling on ice cream balls,
dipped in white or dark chocolate. It would be difficult to cap(rice) this
for indulgence.
By the way, there is a rotating ‘degustation’ menu each week covering five
courses, with suggested wines by the glass to accompany the differing items.
Taking food alone, this is only B. 850++, but if you also have the food and
wine option, this brings it up to B. 1,450++ per person. This is well worth
considering.
There is also a ‘Snack’ menu with smaller items that can be taken at the bar
with items such as lamb somosas served with minted-yoghurt dip and
tostaditas of gulf crab and guacamole served with spicy tomato salsa.
There is really nothing like Caprice in Pattaya at present. It is an upscale
restaurant in a glitzy venue, with attached bar complete with pianist in
formal attire. It has a ‘nightclub’ feel to it, making it a place to meet,
greet and eat in elegant surroundings. It will not be for everyone, but I
enjoyed it. Mind you, I always have enjoyed the ‘finer’ things in life! Of
course, ‘Caprice’ means a work of lively fancy, while ‘capriccioso’
describes a free and impulsive style. Let your every little whim be catered
for! The staff will.
Caprice Restaurant and Bar, Royal Cliff Beach Resort Royal Wing, 353
Pratamnak Road, telephone 038 250 421, fax 038 250 511, open daily with the
bar 6 p.m. until 1 a.m. and the restaurant 6.30 p.m. till 10.30 p.m. Secure
parking within the resort grounds.
