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Sea Worlds

Sea Worlds: The Black Treasure of French Polynesia

by Apichart Panyadee

The Tuamotu Archipelago is strewn across an empty sea like a bright string of pearls. They are atolls - coral crowns on the rims of ancient volcanoes which are outlined for passing aeroplanes by the breaking surf. Actually, the Tuamotus are made up of two mountainous islands and 76 atolls. Each atoll traps and holds a piece of ocean. This provides a lagoon that acts as a kind of giant soup tureen for that rich nutrient, plankton. It is here the lagoon protects and nourishes the Pintada margartifera, the much sought after black-tipped pearl oyster of French Polynesia.

Like an optical illusion, the Tuamotu Archipelago floats in an empty sea like a string of pearls

At the turn of the 20th century, the pearl fisheries of Polynesia harvested oysters for the world’s buttons. Back then a pearl was an exotic windfall. But today, nearly every pearl on the world market is ‘cultured’; grown by man.

The black pearl oyster of the Tuamotu atoll is about four times larger than the size of the Japanese akoya pearl oyster, which actually produces most of the pearls in the world. But black pearls are rarer, thicker and bigger. They are also richer in what is called ‘orient’ which is the reflection of the light beneath the surface of the pearl. This makes the lustre more luxuriant. Even the colours are more various. Unusual colours such as silver grey, obsidian (a dark colour, nearly black), sometimes white, and occasionally green pearls are found. These green pearls are referred to as ‘peacocks’ and are raised in slightly cooler waters in the Gambier Islands. Only the black tipped oyster from French Polynesia will yield these rare pearls.

A ‘grafting operator’ performs the necessary surgery to generate a pearl

Most Japanese oysters are maricultured, which means they are actually born in a hatchery where egg and sperm are artificially combined. But in the Tuamotus, the natural lagoon is the true parent of the oysters, and here they spawn naturally. In this particular lagoon, the oysters act as barometers, which register the health of the environment. If, for any reason, the lagoon declines, so do the oysters, since they require temperatures of about 75 degrees F and clear, unpolluted water. The egg and sperm drift as the lagoon rises and falls with the tide, then combine to produce a larva. Such is the romantic life of an oyster allowed the freedom of nature.

The pearl farmer, however, is a model of patience and ingenuity. He uses plastic garlands suspended in the lagoon to provide an anchorage for the drifting pinhead size larvae. In a few months, each garland is choked with little oysters. They soon grow to the size of silver dollars. At six months the oysters are placed in hanging baskets where they will be left to grow for another year and a half. Then the oysters are removed, and wedged open, one by one. With surgical precision, a ‘grafting operator’ will make a slit with a scalpel near the oyster’s gonad, and insert a snippet of mantle tissue, followed by a nucleus - a bead carved from the shell of an American fresh water mussel. The mantle tissue forms a sac where ‘nacre’, the pearlescent substance that coats the nucleus to form a pearl, is generated. After this ‘surgery’, the oysters will be returned to the lagoon. It will be three years before the pearls will be ready for harvest.

Black pearls from French Polynesia. Rarer and bigger, these are the true treasures from the Tuamotu Archipelago

And what a harvest it is! Thousands of gleaming black pearls end up in the sorting room, each plucked from the maw of an oyster. They will be graded for quality, then sold in the USA, Europe, and Japan. There are more than 500 black pearl oyster farms throughout Polynesia. Some are large, but many are little more than a boat, a few lines of oysters, a scuba tank, a shed, and a determined pearl farmer and his family. Even on this tiny scale, the black pearl is a prized treasure, indeed. For these pearls are not accidental gifts from the sea. They are a product of a complicated partnership between humans and oysters.

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